Topical skin care formulations comprising plant extracts

ABSTRACT

A method of treating a fine line or wrinkle on a person&#39;s skin or increasing collagen production in skin is disclosed. The method can include topically applying to the skin a composition comprising an effective amount of an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous-alcoholic extract of Diospyros mespiliformis leaf to treat the fine line or wrinkle or to increase collagen production in the skin.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No.15/297,550, filed Oct. 19, 2016, which is a continuation of U.S. patentapplication Ser. No. 14/949,259, filed Nov. 23, 2015 (U.S. Pat. No.9,498,428), which is a continuation of U.S. patent application Ser. No.13/821,896, filed Apr. 19, 2013 (U.S. Pat. No. 9,220,675), which is anational phase application of PCT/US2011/048834 filed Aug. 23, 2011,which claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 61/381,306,filed Sep. 9, 2010. The contents of the referenced applications areincorporated into the present application by reference.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION A. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates generally to compositions that include oneor any combination of extracts from the following plants: Kunzeaericoides; Quassia undulata; Diospyros mespiliformis; Khayasenegalensis; Biophytum petersianum; Detarium microcarpum; Crossopteryxfebrofiga; Allophylus africanus; Burkea africana; Nauclea latifolia;Bombax costatum; Buchanania reticulata; Melanorrhoea laccifera; Machilusodoratissimus; Spondias pinnata; Canthium dicoccum; Parinari annamensis;Aporosa tetrapleura; Knema globularia; Garcinia gaudichaudii; Randiadasycarpa; Capparis micrantha; or Garcinia benthami or any combinationthereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts. The extracts can befrom the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare theextract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower,seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). The compositions can be formulated astopical skin compositions, edible compositions, injectible compositions,oral compositions, hair care compositions, etc.

B. Description of Related Art

Ageing, chronic exposure to adverse environmental factors, malnutrition,fatigue, etc., can change the visual appearance, physical properties, orphysiological functions of skin in ways that are considered visuallyundesirable. The most notable and obvious changes include thedevelopment of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, increasedsagging, loss of firmness, loss of color evenness or tone, coarsesurface texture, and mottled pigmentation. Less obvious, but measurablechanges which occur as skin ages or endures chronic environmental insultinclude a general reduction in cellular and tissue vitality, reductionin cell replication rates, reduced cutaneous blood flow, reducedmoisture content, accumulated errors in structure and function,alterations in the normal regulation of common biochemical pathways, anda reduction in the skin's ability to remodel and repair itself. Many ofthe alterations in appearance and function of the skin are caused bychanges in the outer epidermal layer of the skin, while others arecaused by changes in the lower dermis.

Previous attempts to improve the visual appearance of skin with knownskin active-ingredients have been shown to have various drawbacks suchas skin irritation and prolonged recovery periods.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors discovered that a wide variety of plant extracts havetherapeutic benefits. These extracts include extracts obtained fromKunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combinationthereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts. The extracts can befrom the whole plant (i.e., the entire plant is used to prepare theextract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower,seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). The compositions can be formulated astopical skin compositions, edible compositions, injectible compositions,oral compositions, hair care compositions, etc. In particular aspects,the combinations of (1) Quassia undulate and Melanorrhoea laccifera, (2)Quassia undulata, Buchanania reticulata, and Canthium dicoccum, and/or(3) Quassia undulata, Aporosa tetrapleura, and Canthium dicoccum havebeen found to work well in providing a multi-functional/multi beneficialskin treatment composition, as such combinations provide a wide range ofbenefits ranging from COX-1 inhibition, COX-2 inhibition, antioxidantactivity, MMP-1 inhibition, lipoxygenase inhibition, tyrosinaseinhibition, TNF-α inhibition, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and B16melanogenesis inhibition. In other aspects, the following combinationshave also been shown to work well for a multi-beneficial/multi-purposeskin treatment composition: The extracts can be aqueous extracts,non-aqueous extracts, lyophilized extracts, etc. The extracts can beextracted with alcohol (e.g., methanol, ethanol propanol, butanol,etc.), glycols (e.g., propylene glycol, butylene glycol, etc.), oils,water, etc. The compositions of the present invention are capable ofinhibiting COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/orB16 melanogenesis enzymes, stimulating collagen synthesis, and/oractivating the binding site of alpha-2 adrenergic receptors. Additionalcombinations that were discovered that can be useful formulti-purpose/multi-beneficial compositions to treat skin include acombination of Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, Quassia undulata leafextract, and Garcinia gaudichaudii leaf extract, which results in acomposition that has a wide variety of benefits such as inhibition ofCOX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and B16melanogenesis enzymes, while also stimulating collagen synthesis andactivating the binding site of alpha-2 adrenergic receptors, and furthercomprising anti-oxidant effects. Therefore, such a combination can beused to create a multi-purpose composition (e.g., skin treatment,disease, food, etc.). In another aspect, the combination of Quassiaundulata leaf, Buchanania reticulata leaf, Canthium dicoccum leaf, andRandia dasycarpa leaf extract surprising provides a wide variety ofbenefits such as inhibition of COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, lipoxygenase,tyrosinase, TNF-α, and B16 melanogenesis enzymes, while also stimulatingcollagen synthesis and activating the binding site of alpha-2 adrenergicreceptors, and further comprising anti-oxidant effects.

The compositions can further include 0.01% to 99% by weight of saidextracts (or 0.1, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 30, 40,50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 99%, or more or any integer or range therein). Thecomposition can be formulated as a lotion, cream, gel, serum, emulsion,powder, etc. In certain instances, the compositions can further includea moisturizing agent or a humectant, water, a surfactant, a siliconecontaining compounds, a UV agent, an oil, an antioxidant, a vitamin ormineral, a structuring agent, a thickening agent, a cosmetic ingredient,a pharmaceutical ingredient, and/or other ingredients identified in thisspecification or those known in the art.

In another aspect, there is disclosed an aqueous extract, an oilextract, an alcoholic extract, a lyophilized extract from Kunzeaericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combinationthereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the plants. In particular aspects,the extracts are obtained from the whole plant (i.e., the entire plantis used to prepare the extract) or from a part of the plant (e.g., leaf,stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). In certain aspects,the extracts are obtained from the leaf, bark, or root. Such extractscan be incorporated into topical skin or hair care compositions,pharmaceutical compositions, edible compositions, food-based products,injectible compositions, etc. The compositions can be formulated asemulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water,oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions,solutions (e.g., aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solutions), anhydrous bases(e.g., lipstick or a powder), gels, ointments, milks, pastes, aerosols,solid forms, eye jellies, pills, liquid gel caps, etc. It is alsocontemplated that the viscosity of the composition can be selected toachieve a desired result, e.g., depending on the type of compositiondesired, the viscosity of such composition can be from about 1 cps towell over 1 million cps or any range or integer derivable therein (e.g.,2 cps, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100,200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000,6000, 7000, 8000, 9000, 10000, 20000, 30000, 40000, 50000, 60000, 70000,80000, 90000, 100000, 200000, 300000, 400000, 500000, 600000, 700000,800000, 900000, 1000000 cps, etc., as measured on a BrookfieldViscometer using a TC spindle at 2.5 rpm at 25° C.).

The compositions of the present invention can include any desired amountof any one of or any combination of the aforementioned extracts. Theamount of the extracts can individually or combined be from 0.0001,0.0002, 0.0003, 0.0004, 0.0005, 0.0006, 0.0007, 0.0008, 0.0009, 0.001,0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02,0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6,0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16,17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 96, 97, 98,99%, or more, or any range derivable therein, by weight or volume of theextract or combination of extracts.

The compositions of the present invention can also be modified to have adesired oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) value. In certainnon-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present invention or theplant extracts identified throughout this specification can be modifiedto have an ORAC value per mg of at least about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26,27, 28, 29, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90, 95, 100, 200, 300,400, 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000,8000, 9000, 10000, 15000, 20000, 30000, 50000, 100000 or more or anyrange derivable therein.

The compositions in non-limiting aspects can have a pH of about 6 toabout 9. In other aspects, the pH can be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,11, 12, 13, or 14. The compositions can include a triglyceride.Non-limiting examples include small, medium, and large chaintriglycerides. In certain aspects, the triglyceride is a medium chaintriglyceride (e.g., caprylic capric triglyceride). The compositions canalso include preservatives. Non-limiting examples of preservativesinclude methylparaben, propylparaben, or a mixture of methylparaben andpropylparaben.

Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorptionproperties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45,50, 55, 60, or more, or any integer or derivative therein. Thecompositions can be sunscreen lotions, sprays, or creams.

The compositions of the present invention can also include any one of,any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:water, a chelating agent, a moisturizing agent, a preservative, athickening agent, a silicone containing compound, an essential oil, astructuring agent, a vitamin, a pharmaceutical ingredient, or anantioxidant, or any combination of such ingredients or mixtures of suchingredients. In certain aspects, the composition can include at leasttwo, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, or all of theseadditional ingredients identified in the previous sentence. Non-limitingexamples of these additional ingredients are identified throughout thisspecification and are incorporated into this section by reference. Theamounts of such ingredients can range from 0.0001% to 99.9% by weight orvolume of the composition, or any integer or range in between asdisclosed in other sections of this specification, which areincorporated into this paragraph by reference.

In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin carecomposition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementionedextracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following ingredients: water; glycerin; butylene glycol; propyleneglycol; phenoxyethanol; a chelating agent (e.g., EDTA, disodium EDTA,trisodium EDTA, EGTA, disodium EGTA, trisodium EGTA, citric acid,phosphoric acid, succinic acid, etc.); steareth-20; chlorhexidinediglunonate; potassium sorbate; and/or a preservative (e.g.,methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben,isobutylparaben, etc.). In particular aspects, the composition canfurther include any one of, any combination of, or all of the followingadditional ingredients: alcohol; denatured alcohol; glyceryl stearate;dimethicone; PEG-100 stearate; capryl glycol; triethanolamine;maltodextrin; sorbic acid; ethylene brassylate; methyl linalool;isobutyl methyl tetrahydropyranol; ethylhexylglycerin; and/or hexyleneglycol. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from 0.00001to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer or rangederivable therein as explained in other portions of this specificationwhich are incorporated into this paragraph by reference. In particularaspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to 80% by weightof water.

In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin carecomposition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementionedextracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following ingredients: water; dimethicone; triethanolamine;phenonip; betaine; a chelating agent (e.g., EDTA, disodium EDTA,trisodium EDTA, EGTA, disodium EGTA, trisodium EGTA, citric acid,phosphoric acid, succinic acid, etc.); tocopheryl acetate; and/or prodew400. In particular aspects, the composition can further include any oneof, any combination of, or all of the following additional ingredients:propylene glycol; isododecane; polyacrylamide/C13-C14isoparaffin/laureth 7 mixture; PEG-12 dimethicone; and/or ethylhexylpalmitate. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer orrange derivable therein as explained in other portions of thisspecification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference.In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to80% by weight of water.

In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin carecomposition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementionedextracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following ingredients: water; glycerin; pentylene glycol; caprylglycol; disodium EDTA; capric/caprylic triglyceride; shea butter;squalane; cetyl alcohol; dimethicone; ceramide II; stearic acid; amixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG 100 stearate; or a mixture ofacrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, andpolysorbate 80. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer orrange derivable therein as explained in other portions of thisspecification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference.In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to glycerin can be from about7:1 to 9:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio ofglycerin to pentylene glycol can be from about 1:1 to about 2:1 based onthe total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin carecomposition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementionedextracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following ingredients: water; glycerin; capryl glycol; caprylglycol; disodium EDTA; petrolatum; squalane; cetyl alcohol; a mixture ofglyceryl stearate and PEG 100 stearate; dimethicone; or a mixture ofacrylamide/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, andpolysorbate 80. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer orrange derivable therein as explained in other portions of thisspecification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference.In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to glycerin can be from about12:1 to 16:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio ofglycerin to pentylene glycol can be from about 0.5:1 to about 1.5:1based on the total weight of the composition.

In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin carecomposition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementionedextracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following ingredients: water; xanthan gum; disodium EDTA; pentyleneglycol; capryl glycol; acrylate C10-30 acrylate cross polymer;triethanolamine; PVP/hexadecene copolymer; C12-15 alkyl benzoate;sorbitan isostearate; or a sunscreen agent. The concentrations of theseingredients can range from 0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of thecomposition or any integer or range derivable therein as explained inother portions of this specification which are incorporated into thisparagraph by reference. In particular aspects, the concentration ofwater can be at least 35% to 80% by weight of water. The ratio of waterto C12-15 alkyl benzoate can be from about 2:1 to 3:1 based on the totalweight of the composition. The ratio of water to pentylene glycol can befrom about 9:1 to about 11:1 based on the total weight of thecomposition.

In another embodiment, there is disclosed a topical skin carecomposition that includes an one of or combination of the aforementionedextracts in combination with any one of, any combination of, or all ofthe following ingredients: water; disodium EDTA; citric acid; pentyleneglycol; capryl glycol; sodium cocoamphodiacetate; or sodium methylcocoyl taurate. The concentrations of these ingredients can range from0.00001 to 99% by weight or volume of the composition or any integer orrange derivable therein as explained in other portions of thisspecification which are incorporated into this paragraph by reference.In particular aspects, the concentration of water can be at least 35% to80% by weight of water. The ratio of water to pentylene glycol can befrom about 12:1 to 14:1 based on the total weight of the composition.The ratio of water to sodium cocoamphodiacetate can be from about 8:1 toabout 11:1 based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio ofwater to sodium methyl cocoyl taurate can be from about 2:1 to about 4:1based on the total weight of the composition. The ratio of sodium methylcocoyl taurate to sodium cocoamphodiacetate can be from about 2:1 toabout 4:1 based on the total weight of the composition.

In one non-limiting aspect of the present invention there is disclosed amethod of treating skin comprising topically applying to skin in needthereof a compositing comprising an extract from Kunzea ericoides,Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a single composition, and adermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of thecomposition to skin in need thereof treats the skin condition. Suchextracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf,stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). In particularinstances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark and or root of theplant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1,lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesis enzymes,stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the binding site ofalpha-2 adrenergic receptors. The composition can be applied to a fineline or wrinkle, erythemic skin, dry, flaky, or itchy skin, skin havingan uneven skin tone or melasmic skin, inflamed skin, and other skinassociated disorders disclosed throughout this specification. Erythemacan be caused by skin sunburn, electrical treatments of skin, skinburns, contact allergies, systemic allergies, skin toxicity, exercise,insect stings, bacterial infection, viral infection, fungal infection,protozoa infection, massage, windburn, etc.

As noted above, the inventors surprisingly discovered variouscombinations of extracts that produce a wide range of skin benefits.Such combinations include: (1) Quassia undulata and Melanorrhoealaccifera; (2) Quassia undulata, Buchanania reticulata, and Canthiumdicoccum; and/or (3) Quassia undulata, Aporosa tetrapleura, and Canthiumdicoccum, which have been found to work well in providing amulti-functional/multi beneficial skin treatment composition, as suchcombinations provide a wide range of benefits ranging from COX-1inhibition, COX-2 inhibition, antioxidant activity, MMP-1 inhibition,lipoxygenase inhibition, tyrosinase inhibition, TNF-α inhibition,stimulation of collagen synthesis, and B16 melanogenesis inhibition.Further combinations include Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, Quassiaundulata leaf extract, and Garcinia gaudichaudii leaf extract results ina composition that has a wide variety of benefits such as inhibition ofCOX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and B16melanogenesis enzymes, while also stimulating collagen synthesis andactivating the binding site of alpha-2 adrenergic receptors.

In still another aspect of the present invention there is disclosed amethod of treating dry, flaky, or itchy skin or reducing the appearanceof uneven skin tone comprising topically applying a composition to dry,flaky, or itchy skin or to skin having an uneven skin tone, wherein thecomposition includes an extract selected from Kunzea ericoides, Quassiaundulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a single composition, and adermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of thecomposition to skin in need thereof treats the skin condition. Suchextracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf,stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). In particularinstances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark and or root of theplant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1,lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesis enzymes,stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the binding site ofalpha-2 adrenergic receptors.

Also disclosed is a method of reducing the appearance of fine lines orwrinkles comprising topically applying a composition to skin having finelines or wrinkles, wherein the composition includes an extract selectedfrom the group consisting of: Kunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata,Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytum petersianum,Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylus africanus,Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum, Buchananiareticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus, Spondiaspinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosa tetrapleura,Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa, Capparismicrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof or at least1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20,21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a single composition, and adermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of thecomposition to skin in need thereof treats the skin condition. Suchextracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf,stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). In particularinstances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark and or root of theplant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1,lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesis enzymes,stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the binding site ofalpha-2 adrenergic receptors.

In one embodiment of the present invention there is disclosed a methodof reducing the appearance of symptoms associated with erythema (e.g.,erythemic skin, sensitive skin, inflamed skin) comprising topicallyapplying a composition to erythemic, sensitive, or inflamed skin whereinthe composition includes an extract selected from Kunzea ericoides,Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a single composition, and adermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of thecomposition to skin in need thereof treats the skin condition. Suchextracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf,stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). In particularinstances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark and or root of theplant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1,lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesis enzymes,stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the binding site ofalpha-2 adrenergic receptors.

In a more general sense there is disclosed a method of treating orpreventing a skin condition comprising topically applying a compositionto skin having a skin condition, wherein the composition includes anextract selected from the group consisting of Kunzea ericoides, Quassiaundulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a single composition, and adermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein topical application of thecomposition to skin in need thereof treats the skin condition. Suchextracts can be from the whole plant or a part of the plant (e.g., leaf,stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap, etc.). In particularinstances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark and or root of theplant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1,lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesis enzymes,stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the binding site ofalpha-2 adrenergic receptors. The compositions described throughout thespecification and claims can be used with this method. Non-limitingexamples of skin conditions include dry skin, itchy skin, inflamed skin,erythema, sensitive skin, pruritus, spider veins, lentigo, age spots,senile purpura, keratosis, melasma, blotches, fine lines or wrinkles,nodules, sun damaged skin, dermatitis (including, but not limited toseborrheic dermatitis, nummular dermatitis, contact dermatitis, atopicdermatitis, exfoliative dermatitis, perioral dermatitis, and stasisdermatitis), psoriasis, folliculitis, rosacea, acne, impetigo,erysipelas, erythrasma, eczema, sun burns, burned skin, open wounds,skin-inflammatory skin conditions, etc. In certain non-limiting aspects,the skin condition can be caused by exposure to UV light, age,irradiation, chronic sun exposure, environmental pollutants, airpollution, wind, cold, heat, chemicals, disease pathologies, smoking, orlack of nutrition. The skin can be facial skin or non-facial skin (e.g.,arms, legs, hands, chest, back, feet, etc.). The method can furthercomprise identifying a person in need of skin treatment. The person canbe a male or female. The age of the person can be at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75,80, 85, 90, 95, or more years old, or any range derivable therein. Themethod can also include topically applying an amount effective to:increase the stratum corneum turnover rate of the skin; increasecollagen synthesis in fibroblasts; increase cellular anti-oxidantdefense mechanisms (e.g., exogenous additions of anti-oxidants canbolster, replenish, or prevent the loss of cellular antioxidants such ascatalase and glutathione in skin cells (e.g., keratinocytes,melanocytes, langerhans cells, etc.) which will reduce or preventoxidative damage to the skin, cellular, proteins, and lipids); inhibitmelanin production in melanocytes; reduce or prevent oxidative damage toskin (including reducing the amount lipid peroxides and/or proteinoxidation in the skin).

In certain embodiments, compositions of the present invention candecrease the amount of internal oxidation and/or external oxidativedamage in a cell. In other aspects, the compositions can increasecollagen synthesis in a cell. The compositions can also reduce skininflammation, such as by reducing inflammatory cytokine production in acell. Non-limiting examples of such cells include human epidermalkeratinocyte, human fibroblast dermal cell, human melanocytes, threedimensional human cell-derived in vitro tissue equivalents comprisinghuman keratinocytes, human fibroblasts, or human melanocytes, or anycombination thereof (e.g., combination of human keratinocytes and humanfibroblasts or a combination of human keratinocytes and humanmelanocytes).

Also disclosed is a method of treating hyperpigmentation comprisingapplying the compositions of the present invention to the skin. Themethod can also comprise identifying a person in need of treatinghyperpigmentation and applying the composition to a portion of the skinexhibiting hyperpigmentation. Additional methods contemplated by theinventors include methods for reducing the appearance of an age spot, askin discoloration, or a freckle, reducing or preventing the appearanceof fine lines or wrinkles in skin, or increasing the firmness of skin byapplying the compositions of the present invention to skin in need ofsuch treatment.

In yet another aspect of the present invention there is disclosed amethod of treating or preventing a wide variety of diseases comprisingadministering to a patient in need of treatment a composition comprisingan extract selected from Kunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyrosmespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detariummicrocarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkeaafricana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata,Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus, Spondias pinnata,Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosa tetrapleura, Knemaglobularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa, Capparis micrantha,or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23of the extracts. Such extracts can be from the whole plant or a part ofthe plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap,etc.). In particular instances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark andor root of the plant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1,COX-2, MMP-1, lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesisenzymes, stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the bindingsite of alpha-2 adrenergic receptors. The composition can be formulatedas a topical composition, an ingestible composition, an injectiblecomposition, an aerosolized composition, etc. Non-limiting examples ofdiseases that can be treated or prevented with such compositions includeAIDS, autoimmune diseases (e.g., rheumatoid arthritis, multiplesclerosis, diabetes—insulin-dependent and non-independent, systemiclupus erythematosus and Graves disease), cancer (e.g., malignant,benign, metastatic, precancer), cardiovascular diseases (e.g., heartdisease or coronary artery disease, stroke—ischemic and hemorrhagic, andrheumatic heart disease), diseases of the nervous system, and infectionby pathogenic microorganisms (e.g., Athlete's Foot, Chickenpox, Commoncold, Diarrheal diseases, Flu, Genital herpes, Malaria, Meningitis,Pneumonia, Sinusitis, Skin diseases, Strep throat, Tuberculosis, Urinarytract infections, Vaginal infections, Viral hepatitis), inflammation(e.g., allergy, asthma), prion diseases (e.g., CID, kuru, GSS, FFI),obesity, etc.

In even a further embodiment there is disclosed a method of treating orpreventing hair loss comprising administering to a patient in need oftreatment a composition comprising an extract selected from Kunzeaericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combinationthereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a singlecomposition, and a pharmaceutically (whether topical, oral, injectible,etc.) or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, wherein administering tothe patient in need thereof prevents or treats hair loss. Preventing ortreating hair loss can include stimulating hair growth on the scalp, ineyebrows, in eyelashes, or on other regions of the body where hairgrowth is desired. Such extracts can be from the whole plant or a partof the plant (e.g., leaf, stem, root, flower, seed, bark, fruit, sap,etc.). In particular instances, the extracts are from the leaf, bark andor root of the plant. The composition is capable of inhibiting COX-1,COX-2, MMP-1, lipoxygenase, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and/or B16 melanogenesisenzymes, stimulating collagen synthesis, and/or activating the bindingsite of alpha-2 adrenergic receptors.

Also disclosed is a composition comprising an extract of Kunzeaericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami or any combinationthereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of the extracts in a singlecomposition. The composition can take the form of a pill, liquid gelcap, or tablet. The composition can be an injectable solution (e.g., forintravenous delivery). The composition can be in the form of aneutraceutical. The extract can be an aqueous extract. The aqueousextract can include an alcohol, a glycol (e.g., butylene glycol,propylene glycol, or a combination thereof) water and/or oil.

In one instance there is disclosed a multi-functional topical skin carecomposition comprising: (a) ingredients comprising: (i) an inhibitor ofCOX-1 selected from the group consisting of: an extract of Quassiaundulate; an extract of Biophytum petersianum; an extract of Allophylusafricanus; an extract of Buchanania reticulate; an extract ofMelanorrhoea laccifera; an extract of Canthium dicoccum; an extract ofAporosa tetrapleura; and any combination thereof; (ii) an inhibitor ofCOX-2 selected from the group consisting of: an extract of Buchananiareticulate; an extract of Melanorrhoea laccifera; an extract of Aporosatetrapleura, and any combination thereof; (iii) an antioxidant selectedfrom the group consisting of: an extract of Quassia undulate; an extractof Biophytum petersianum; an extract of Buchanania reticulate; anextract of Melanorrhoea laccifera; an extract of Aporosa tetrapleura;and any combination thereof; (iv) an inhibitor of MMP-1 selected fromthe group consisting of: an extract of Quassia undulate; an extract ofBuchanania reticulate; an extract of Melanorrhoea laccifera; an extractof Aporosa tetrapleura; and any combination thereof; (v) an inhibitor oflipoxygenase comprising an extract of Quassia undulata; (vi) aninhibitor of tyorsinase selected from the group consisting of: anextract of Quassia undulate; an extract of Biophytum petersianum; anextract of Allophylus africanus; and any combination thereof; (vii) aninhibitor of TNF-α selected from the group consisting of: an extractfrom Quassia undulate; an extract of Allophylus africanus; an extract ofCanthium dicoccum; an extract of Aporosa tetrapleura; and anycombination thereof; (viii) a stimulator of collagen synthesis selectedfrom the group consisting of: Melanorrhoea laccifera; an extract ofCanthium dicoccum; and any combination thereof; and (ix) an inhibitor ofB16 melanogenesis comprising an extract from Quassia undulate, and (b) adermatologically acceptable vehicle. In one aspect, the compositioncomprises an extract from Quassia undulate and at least a second extractselected from the group consisting of: Buchanania reticulate;Melanorrhoea laccifera; Aporosa tetrapleura; Canthium dicoccum, and anycombination thereof. In another aspect, the composition comprises anextract from Quassia undulate and Melanorrhoea laccifera. In stillanother aspect, the composition comprises an extract from Quassiaundulata, Buchanania reticulata, and Canthium dicoccum. In even anotheraspect, the multi-functional topical skin care composition can of claim2, comprising an extract from Quassia undulata, Aporosa tetrapleura, andCanthium dicoccum. The extracts can be obtained from all parts of theplant, with the leaf being particularly interesting. The extracts canindividually or combinatorially be present in amounts from 0.01% to 20%by weight of said individual extracts or combination of said extracts.The composition can be formulated in a variety of ways disclosedthroughout the specification (e.g., a lotion, cream, gel, serum,emulsion, or powder) The extracts can be alcoholic extracts (e.g.,methanol-based extracts). The multi-functional topical skin carecomposition can further include a moisturizing agent or a humectantsand/or at least 40% w/w of water.

Kits that include the compositions of the present invention are alsocontemplated. In certain embodiments, the composition is comprised in acontainer. The container can be a bottle, dispenser, or package. Thecontainer can dispense a pre-determined amount of the composition. Incertain aspects, the compositions is dispensed in a spray, dollop, orliquid. The container can include indicia on its surface. The indiciacan be a word, an abbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

Also contemplated is a product comprising a composition of the presentinvention. In non-limiting aspects, the product can be a cosmeticproduct. The cosmetic product can be those described in other sectionsof this specification or those known to a person of skill in the art.Non-limiting examples of products include a moisturizer, a cream, alotion, a skin softener, a foundation, a night cream, a lipstick, acleanser, a toner, a sunscreen, a mask, an anti-aging product, adeodorant, an antiperspirant, a perfume, a cologne, etc.

It is also contemplated that compositions of the present invention canbe included into food-based products (e.g., beverages, fortified water,energy drinks, nutritional drinks, solid foods, vitamins, supplements,etc.) and pharmaceutical products (e.g., pills, tablets, gel capsules,injectible solutions, drugs, etc.). “Supplements” can include vitamins,minerals, herbs or other botanicals, amino acids, enzymes andmetabolites. Such supplements are suitable for oral consumption and canbe administered orally.

It is contemplated that any embodiment discussed in this specificationcan be implemented with respect to any method or composition of theinvention, and vice versa. Furthermore, compositions of the inventioncan be used to achieve methods of the invention.

In one embodiment, the topical skin compositions of the currentinvention are pharmaceutically elegant. “Pharmaceutically elegant”describes a composition that has particular tactile properties whichfeel pleasant on the skin (e.g., compositions that are not too watery orgreasy, compositions that have a silky texture, compositions that arenon-tacky or sticky, etc.). Pharmaceutically elegant can also relate tothe creaminess or lubricity properties of the composition or to themoisture retaining properties of the composition.

“Keratinous tissue” includes keratin-containing layers disposed as theoutermost protective covering of mammals and includes, but is notlimited to, skin, hair and nails.

“Topical application” means to apply or spread a composition onto thesurface of keratinous tissue. “Topical skin composition” includescompositions suitable for topical application on keratinous tissue. Suchcompositions are typically dermatologically-acceptable in that they donot have undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergicresponse, and the like, when applied to skin. Topical skin carecompositions of the present invention can have a selected viscosity toavoid significant dripping or pooling after application to skin.

The term “about” or “approximately” are defined as being close to asunderstood by one of ordinary skill in the art, and in one non-limitingembodiment the terms are defined to be within 10%, preferably within 5%,more preferably within 1%, and most preferably within 0.5%.

The terms “inhibiting” or “reducing” or any variation of these terms,when used in the claims and/or the specification includes any measurabledecrease or complete inhibition to achieve a desired result.

The term “effective,” as that term is used in the specification and/orclaims, means adequate to accomplish a desired, expected, or intendedresult.

The use of the word “a” or “an” when used in conjunction with the term“comprising” in the claims and/or the specification may mean “one,” butit is also consistent with the meaning of “one or more,” “at least one,”and “one or more than one.”

The words “comprising” (and any form of comprising, such as “comprise”and “comprises”), “having” (and any form of having, such as “have” and“has”), “including” (and any form of including, such as “includes” and“include”) or “containing” (and any form of containing, such as“contains” and “contain”) are inclusive or open-ended and do not excludeadditional, unrecited elements or method steps.

Other objects, features and advantages of the present invention willbecome apparent from the following detailed description. It should beunderstood, however, that the detailed description and the examples,while indicating specific embodiments of the invention, are given by wayof illustration only. Additionally, it is contemplated that changes andmodifications within the spirit and scope of the invention will becomeapparent to those skilled in the art from this detailed description.

DESCRIPTION OF ILLUSTRATIVE EMBODIMENTS

In today's image conscious society, people are continually looking for aproduct that can improve the visual appearance of their skin. Oftentimes, aged skin, uneven skin tone, or skin damaged by environmentalfactors such as UV light, chronic sun exposure, environmentalpollutants, chemicals, disease pathologies, or smoking, is associatedwith unattractive skin. Previous attempts to improve the visualappearance of skin has been shown to have various drawbacks such as skinirritation and prolonged recovery periods.

The present invention is an effective alternative to the use ofcompositions and ingredients currently used to treat aged skin,environmentally-damaged skin, uneven skin tone, and other skinconditions. In one non-limiting embodiment, the compositions of thepresent invention can be used to treat irritation of the skin and toimprove the skin's visual appearance, physiological functions, clinicalproperties, or biophysical properties by providing a composition of thepresent invention to an area of the skin that needs such treatment. Asnoted throughout this specification, the compositions can include anyone of an extract from Kunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyrosmespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detariummicrocarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkeaafricana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata,Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus, Spondias pinnata,Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosa tetrapleura, Knemaglobularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa, Capparis micrantha,or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23of the extracts in a single composition. These and other non-limitingaspects of the present invention are described in further detail below.Particular combinations of extracts (as identified in the summary of theinvention, examples, and claims) can be useful inmulti-purpose/multi-benefit skin treatment compositions.

A. Extracts

1. Kunzea ericoides

Kunzea ericoides is considered a shrub or small tree and can produceflowers, fruit, and seeds. It is native to Australia and New Zealand.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Kunzea ericoides haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeinhibiting TNF-α activity and stimulating collagen production in theskin. All of the different portions of Kunzea ericoides can be used toobtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include itsleaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels,seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

2. Quassia undulata

Quassia undulata is a medium to large sized tree. It has leaves, bark,and can produce flowers and seeds. It is native to western Africa andcan be found in Guinea, West Cameroons, Zaire (or Democratic Republic ofthe Congo), and Angola.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Quassia undulata haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties and inhibition of COX-1, MMP-1, lipoxygenase,tyrosinase, TNF-α, and B16 melanogenesis activity. All of the differentportions of Quassia undulata can be used to obtain the correspondingextract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots,fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant(i.e., whole plant).

3. Diospyros mespiliformis

Diospyros mespiliformis is a large tree that can produce flowers, fruit,and seeds. It is native to Africa and can be located from Ethiopia tosouth of Swaziland.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Diospyros mespiliformishave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen production, andinhibition of COX-1, MMP-1, tyrosinase, and TNF-α activity. All of thedifferent portions of Diospyros mespiliformis can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

4. Khaya senegalensis

Khaya senegalensis is a large tree that can produce flowers, fruit, andseeds. It is native to Africa and can be located in West Africa (e.g.,Senegal). It can also be located in Northern Australia.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Khaya senegalensis haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen production, andinhibition of COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, and tyrosinase activity. All of thedifferent portions of Khaya senegalensis can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

5. Biophytum petersianum

Biophytum petersianum is an annual herb that can reach upwards of 40 cmin height. The stem has a hairy appearance with a terminal rosette ofpinnate leaves. It typically includes 3-10 pairs of leaflets, decreasingin size with the terminal pair largest and can produce yellow or orangecolored flowers. This plant is native to Africa and can be found inMozambique and Zimbabwe.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Biophytum petersianumhave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties and inhibition of COX-1 and tyrosinase activity.All of the different portions of Biophytum petersianum can be used toobtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include itsleaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels,seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

6. Detarium microcarpum

Diospyros mespiliformis is a large tree that can produce flowers, fruit,and seeds. It is native to Africa and can be located from Ethiopia tosouth of Swaziland.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Diospyros mespiliformishave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen production, andinhibition of COX-1, MMP-1, tyrosinase, TNF-α, and B16 melanogenesisactivity. All of the different portions of Diospyros mespiliformis canbe used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examplesinclude its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds,kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

7. Crossopteryx febrofiga

Crossopteryx febrofiga is considered a shrub or small tree that canproduce flowers, fruit, and seeds. It is native to Africa and can belocated in tropical African countries.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Crossopteryx febrofigahave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties and inhibition of COX-1, MMP-1, tyrosinase, andTNF-α activity. All of the different portions of Crossopteryx febrofigacan be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examplesinclude its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds,kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

8. Allophylus africanus

Allophylus africanus is considered a shrub or small tree. It has leavesand can produce small creamy-yellow flowers and fruit, which has a redto black color when ripe. This plant is native to Africa and can befound throughout tropical Africa extending to Zimbabwe and South Africa.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Allophylus africanus haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeinhibition of COX-1, tyrosinase, and TNF-α activity. All of thedifferent portions of Allophylus africanus can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

9. Burkea africana

Burkea africana is a medium-sized tree that can produce creamy whiteflowers, fruit, and seeds. It is native to Tropical Africa and can befound in Chad, Sudan, Tanzania, Uganda, Cameroon, Central AfricanRepublic, Zaire, Benin, Burkina Faso, Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana, Guinea,Mali, Niger, Nigeria, Senegal, Togo, Angola, Malawi, Mozambique, Zambia,Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, South Africa in the Transvaal.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Burkea africana haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties and inhibition of COX-1, MMP-1, and tyrosinaseactivity. All of the different portions of Burkea africana can be usedto obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include itsleaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels,seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

10. Nauclea latifolia

Nauclea latifolia is considered a shrub or small tree that can producewhite flowers, fruit, and seeds. It is native to West Tropical Africa,and can be found in Angola, Cameroon, and Uganda.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Nauclea latifolia haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen production, andinhibition of COX-1 and tyrosinase activity. All of the differentportions of Nauclea latifolia can be used to obtain the correspondingextract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots,fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant(i.e., whole plant).

11. Bombax costatum

Bombax costatum is a tree that can produce flowers, fruit, and seeds. Itis native to Africa and can be located in Senegal, Guinea, Ghana,Nigeria, and Chad.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Bombax costatum haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen production, andinhibition of COX-1, tyrosinase, and TNF-α activity. All of thedifferent portions of Bombax costatum can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

12. Buchanania reticulata

Buchanania reticulata is a tree that can produce flowers, fruit, andseeds. It is native to the Pacific, Eastern Indonesia, and thePhilippines.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Buchanania reticulatahave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties and inhibition of COX-1, COX-2, and MMP-1activity. All of the different portions of Buchanania reticulata can beused to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples includeits leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels,seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

13. Melanorrhoea laccifera

Melanorrhoea laccifera is a tree. This plant is native to Vietnam.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Melanorrhoea lacciferahave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulation of collagen production, andinhibition of COX-1, COX-2, and MMP-1 activity. All of the differentportions of Melanorrhoea laccifera can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

14. Machilus odoratissimus

Machilus odoratissimus is a tree. This plant is native to theHimalaya's, Singapore, Java, Sumatra, and Cochin China.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Machilus odoratissimushave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeinhibition of COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, and TNF-α activity. All of thedifferent portions of Machilus odoratissimus can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

15. Spondias pinnata

Spondias pinnata is a tree that can produce flowers, fruit, and seeds.It is native to Tropical Asia and can be found in countries such asMalaysia, Thailand, India, and China.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Spondias pinnata haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulating collagen production, and inhibitionof COX-1 and TNF-α activity. All of the different portions of Spondiaspinnata can be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limitingexamples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers orflower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., wholeplant).

16. Canthium dicoccum

Canthium dicoccum is a tree that can reach upwards of 12 meters inheight. It has leaves and can produce flowers, fruit, and seeds. Thisplant is native to Malaysia, Nepal, India, and China.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Canthium dicoccum haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includestimulating collagen production and inhibition of COX-1 and TNF-αactivity. All of the different portions of Canthium dicoccum can be usedto obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include itsleaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels,seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

17. Parinari annamensis

Parinari annamensis is a tree that can produce flowers, fruit, andseeds. It is native to Vietnam.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Parinari annamensis haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulating collagen production, and inhibitionof MMP-1 activity. All of the different portions of Parinari annamensiscan be used to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examplesinclude its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds,kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

18. Aporosa tetrapleura

Aporosa tetrapleura is a medium sized tree. This plant is native toVietnam.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Aporosa tetrapleura haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties and inhibition of COX-1, COX-2, MMP-1, and TNF-αactivity. All of the different portions of Aporosa tetrapleura can beused to obtain the corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples includeits leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels,seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

19. Knema globularia

Knema globularia is an evergreen tree that can reach up to 20 meters inheight. It can produce flowers, fruit, and seeds. The bark is smooth andhas a dark grey-brown color. This plant is native to Burma, SouthernChina, Malay Peninsula, Indonesia, Thailand, and Laos.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Knema globularia haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, binding of alpha-2 adrenergic receptor, andinhibition of MMP-1, tyrosinase, and TNF-α activity. All of thedifferent portions of Knema globularia can be used to obtain thecorresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and theentire plant (i.e., whole plant).

20. Garcinia gaudichaudii

Garcinia gaudichaudii is a small tree that can produce flowers, fruit,and seeds. It is native to Northern Malaysia.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Garcinia gaudichaudiihave several biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, binding of alpha-2 adrenergic receptor, andinhibition of COX-2 and TNF-α activity. All of the different portions ofGarcinia gaudichaudii can be used to obtain the corresponding extract.Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit,flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e.,whole plant).

21. Randia dasycarpa

Randia dasycarpa is a tree that can produce flowers, fruit, and seeds.It is native to Thailand.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Randia dasycarpa haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includebinding of alpha-2 adrenergic receptor and inhibition of MMP-1 activity.All of the different portions of Randia dasycarpa can be used to obtainthe corresponding extract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves,stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap,and the entire plant (i.e., whole plant).

22. Capparis micrantha

Capparis micrantha is a shrub or tree that can produce flowers, fruit,and seeds. It is native to the Philippines.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Capparis micrantha haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulating collagen production, and inhibitionof COX-1, and lipoxygenase activity. All of the different portions ofCapparis micrantha can be used to obtain the corresponding extract.Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit,flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant (i.e.,whole plant).

23. Garcinia benthami

Garcinia benthami is tree that can reach up to 18 meters in height. Itcan produce flowers, fruit, and seeds. It is native to India and SriLanka.

The inventors have discovered that extracts of Garcinia benthami haveseveral biological activities, which can be beneficial to skin.Non-limiting examples of some of these biological activities includeantioxidant properties, stimulating collagen production, and inhibitionof COX-1, MMP-1, lipoxygenase, and TNF-α activity. All of the differentportions of Garcinia benthami can be used to obtain the correspondingextract. Non-limiting examples include its leaves, stems, bark, roots,fruit, flowers or flower buds, kernels, seeds, sap, and the entire plant(i.e., whole plant).

24. Extraction Methods

A person of ordinary skill in the art would be able to isolate any oneof the extracts identified above from parts of the corresponding plantby using any suitable method known in the art. In one non-limitingexample, the plant (or any part of the plant such as the leaves, stems,bark, roots, fruit, flowers or flower buds, fruit, seeds, seed pods,sap, whole plant, etc.) can be disrupted by mechanical means whichresults in a puree. The puree is then processed to be substantially freeof impurities or undesired solids. The puree can then be poured into ashallow vessel and quickly exposed to low temperature, i.e., flashfrozen, for example at −20° C. or lower, preferably under a vacuum forremoval of water content (lyophilization). The resultant extract canthen be used in the compositions of the present invention.

In other aspects, aqueous, alcoholic, or oil based extractiontechniques, or combinations thereof, can be used on the whole plant orany part thereof of (e.g., leaves, stems, bark, roots, fruit, flowers orflower buds, fruit, seeds, seed pods, whole plant, etc.) to produce anextract. In such a process, the desired part of the plant or the wholeplant is crushed up (e.g., blender) and then subjected to a desiredsolvent (e.g., water, alcohol, water/alcohol, or oil based solvents) toobtain the desired extract. The extract can then be stored in liquidform, lyophilized, or subject to further processing techniques (e.g.,heating, cooling, etc.). Extraction processes are well-known to thosehaving ordinary skill in the extract field (e.g., maceration, infusion,percolation, digestion, decoction, hot continuous extraction,aqueous-alcoholic extract, counter current extract, microwave assistedextraction, ultrasound extraction, supercritical fluid extracts,phytonic extract (e.g., with hydro-flouro-carbon solvents), etc.

Additional extraction processes used by the inventors are described inthe Examples.

B. Compositions of the Present Invention

1. Combinations and Amounts of Ingredients

It is contemplated that the compositions of the present invention caninclude an extract of Kunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyrosmespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detariummicrocarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkeaafricana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata,Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus, Spondias pinnata,Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosa tetrapleura, Knemaglobularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa, Capparis micrantha,or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof or at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23of such extracts. The compositions can also include additionalingredients described throughout this specification. The concentrationsof the plant extracts and/or additional ingredients can vary. Innon-limiting embodiments, for example, the compositions can include intheir final form, for example, at least about 0.0001%, 0.0002%, 0.0003%,0.0004%, 0.0005%, 0.0006%, 0.0007%, 0.0008%, 0.0009%, 0.0010%, 0.0011%,0.0012%, 0.0013%, 0.0014%, 0.0015%, 0.0016%, 0.0017%, 0.0018%, 0.0019%,0.0020%, 0.0021%, 0.0022%, 0.0023%, 0.0024%, 0.0025%, 0.0026%, 0.0027%,0.0028%, 0.0029%, 0.0030%, 0.0031%, 0.0032%, 0.0033%, 0.0034%, 0.0035%,0.0036%, 0.0037%, 0.0038%, 0.0039%, 0.0040%, 0.0041%, 0.0042%, 0.0043%,0.0044%, 0.0045%, 0.0046%, 0.0047%, 0.0048%, 0.0049%, 0.0050%, 0.0051%,0.0052%, 0.0053%, 0.0054%, 0.0055%, 0.0056%, 0.0057%, 0.0058%, 0.0059%,0.0060%, 0.0061%, 0.0062%, 0.0063%, 0.0064%, 0.0065%, 0.0066%, 0.0067%,0.0068%, 0.0069%, 0.0070%, 0.0071%, 0.0072%, 0.0073%, 0.0074%, 0.0075%,0.0076%, 0.0077%, 0.0078%, 0.0079%, 0.0080%, 0.0081%, 0.0082%, 0.0083%,0.0084%, 0.0085%, 0.0086%, 0.0087%, 0.0088%, 0.0089%, 0.0090%, 0.0091%,0.0092%, 0.0093%, 0.0094%, 0.0095%, 0.0096%, 0.0097%, 0.0098%, 0.0099%,0.0100%, 0.0200%, 0.0250%, 0.0275%, 0.0300%, 0.0325%, 0.0350%, 0.0375%,0.0400%, 0.0425%, 0.0450%, 0.0475%, 0.0500%, 0.0525%, 0.0550%, 0.0575%,0.0600%, 0.0625%, 0.0650%, 0.0675%, 0.0700%, 0.0725%, 0.0750%, 0.0775%,0.0800%, 0.0825%, 0.0850%, 0.0875%, 0.0900%, 0.0925%, 0.0950%, 0.0975%,0.1000%, 0.1250%, 0.1500%, 0.1750%, 0.2000%, 0.2250%, 0.2500%, 0.2750%,0.3000%, 0.3250%, 0.3500%, 0.3750%, 0.4000%, 0.4250%, 0.4500%, 0.4750%,0.5000%, 0.5250%, 0.550%, 0.5750%, 0.6000%, 0.6250%, 0.6500%, 0.6750%,0.7000%, 0.7250%, 0.7500%, 0.7750%, 0.8000%, 0.8250%, 0.8500%, 0.8750%,0.9000%, 0.9250%, 0.9500%, 0.9750%, 1.0%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.3%, 1.4%, 1.5%,1.6%, 1.7%, 1.8%, 1.9%, 2.0%, 2.1%, 2.2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%,2.8%, 2.9%, 3.0%, 3.1%, 3.2%, 3.3%, 3.4%, 3.5%, 3.6%, 3.7%, 3.8%, 3.9%,4.0%, 4.1%, 4.2%, 4.3%, 4.4%, 4.5%, 4.6%, 4.7%, 4.8%, 4.9%, 5.0%, 5.1%,5.2%, 5.3%, 5.4%, 5.5%, 5.6%, 5.7%, 5.8%, 5.9%, 6.0%, 6.1%, 6.2%, 6.3%,6.4%, 6.5%, 6.6%, 6.7%, 6.8%, 6.9%, 7.0%, 7.1%, 7.2%, 7.3%, 7.4%, 7.5%,7.6%, 7.7%, 7.8%, 7.9%, 8.0%, 8.1%, 8.2%, 8.3%, 8.4%, 8.5%, 8.6%, 8.7%,8.8%, 8.9%, 9.0%, 9.1%, 9.2%, 9.3%, 9.4%, 9.5%, 9.6%, 9.7%, 9.8%, 9.9%,10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 21%, 22%, 23%,24%, 25%, 26%, 27%, 28%, 29%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 60%, 65%, 70%,75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% or more, or any range or integerderivable therein, of at least one of the plant extracts identified inthis specification or any combination thereof or additional ingredients.In non-limiting aspects, the percentage of such ingredients can becalculated by weight or volume of the total weight of the compositions.The concentrations can vary depending on the desired effect of thecompositions or on the product into which the compositions areincorporated.

2. Composition Vehicles

The compositions of the present invention can be formulated into alltypes of vehicles. Non-limiting examples of suitable vehicles includeemulsions (e.g., oil-in-water, water-in-oil, silicone-in-water,water-in-silicone, water-in-oil-in-water, oil-in-water,oil-in-water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-silicone, etc.), creams, lotions,solutions (both aqueous and hydro-alcoholic), anhydrous bases (such aslipsticks and powders), gels, ointments, pastes, milks, liquids,aerosols, solid forms, or eye jellies. Variations and other appropriatevehicles will be apparent to the skilled artisan and are appropriate foruse in the present invention. In certain aspects, the concentrations andcombinations of the ingredients can be selected in such a way that thecombinations are chemically compatible and do not form complexes whichprecipitate from the finished product.

It is also contemplated that the plant extracts and additionalingredients identified throughout this specification can be encapsulatedfor delivery to a target area such as skin. Non-limiting examples ofencapsulation techniques include the use of liposomes, vesicles, and/ornanoparticles (e.g., biodegradable and non-biodegradable colloidalparticles comprising polymeric materials in which the ingredient istrapped, encapsulated, and/or absorbed—examples include nanospheres andnanocapsules) that can be used as delivery vehicles to deliver suchingredients to skin (see, e.g., U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,398; U.S. Pat. No.6,203,802; U.S. Pat. No. 5,411,744; Kreuter 1988).

Also contemplated are pharmaceutically-acceptable orpharmacologically-acceptable compositions. The phrase“pharmaceutically-acceptable” or “pharmacologically-acceptable” includescompositions that do not produce an allergic or similar untowardreaction when administered to a human. Typically, such compositions areprepared either as topical compositions, liquid solutions orsuspensions, solid forms suitable for solution in, or suspension in,liquid prior to use can also be prepared. Routes of administration canvary with the location and nature of the condition to be treated, andinclude, e.g., topical, inhalation, intradermal, transdermal,parenteral, intravenous, intramuscular, intranasal, subcutaneous,percutaneous, intratracheal, intraperitoneal, intratumoral, perfusion,lavage, direct injection (e.g., an injectable solution), and oraladministration and formulation (e.g., tablets, capsules, etc.).

3. Products

The compositions of the present invention can be incorporated intoproducts. Non-limiting examples of products include cosmetic products,food-based products (e.g., fortified water, energy drinks, nutritionaldrinks, vitamins, supplements, solid foods), pharmaceutical products,etc. By way of example only, non-limiting cosmetic products includesunscreen products, sunless skin tanning products, hair products (e.g.,shampoos, conditioners, colorants, dyes, bleaches, straighteners, andpermanent wave products), fingernail products, moisturizing creams, skincreams and lotions, softeners, day lotions, gels, ointments,foundations, night creams, lipsticks and lip balms, cleansers, toners,masks, deodorants, antiperspirants, exfoliating compositions,shaving-related products (e.g., creams, “bracers” and aftershaves),pre-moistened wipes and washcloths, tanning lotions, bath products suchas oils, foot care products such as powders and sprays, skin colorantand make-up products such as foundations, blushes, rouges eye shadowsand lines, lip colors and mascaras, baby products (e.g., baby lotions,oils, shampoos, powders and wet wipes), and skin or facial peelproducts. Additionally, the cosmetic products can be formulated asleave-on or rinse-off products. Further products can include hairre-growth compositions, serums, sprays, and the like.

4. Additional Ingredients

Compositions of the present invention can include additionalingredients. Non-limiting examples of additional ingredients includecosmetic ingredients (both active and non-active) and pharmaceuticalingredients (both active and non-active).

a. Cosmetic Ingredients

The CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook(2008), 12^(th) Edition, describes a wide variety of non-limitingcosmetic ingredients that can be used in the context of the presentinvention. Examples of these ingredient classes include: fragrances(artificial and natural), dyes and color ingredients (e.g., Blue 1, Blue1 Lake, Red 40, titanium dioxide, D&C blue no. 4, D&C green no. 5, D&Corange no. 4, D&C red no. 17, D&C red no. 33, D&C violet no. 2, D&Cyellow no. 10, and D&C yellow no. 11), adsorbents, emulsifiers,stabilizers, lubricants, solvents, moisturizers (including, e.g.,emollients, humectants, film formers, occlusive agents, and agents thataffect the natural moisturization mechanisms of the skin),water-repellants, UV absorbers (physical and chemical absorbers such asparaaminobenzoic acid (“PABA”) and corresponding PABA derivatives,titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, etc.), essential oils, vitamins (e.g., A,B, C, D, E, and K), trace metals (e.g., zinc, calcium and selenium),anti-irritants (e.g., steroids and non-steroidal anti-inflammatories),botanical extracts (e.g., aloe vera, chamomile, cucumber extract, ginkgobiloba, ginseng, and rosemary), anti-microbial agents, antioxidants(e.g., BHT and tocopherol), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA andtetrasodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., methylparaben andpropylparaben), pH adjusters (e.g., sodium hydroxide and citric acid),absorbents (e.g., aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, kaolin, corn starch,oat starch, cyclodextrin, talc, and zeolite), skin bleaching andlightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone and niacinamide lactate),humectants (e.g., glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentyleneglycol, sorbitol, urea, and manitol), exfoliants (e.g.,alpha-hydroxyacids, and beta-hydroxyacids such as lactic acid, glycolicacid, and salicylic acid; and salts thereof) waterproofing agents (e.g.,magnesium/aluminum hydroxide stearate), skin conditioning agents (e.g.,aloe extracts, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramides, dimethicone, hyaluronicacid, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate), thickening agents (e.g.,substances which that can increase the viscosity of a composition suchas carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers,polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, and gums), and siliconecontaining compounds (e.g., silicone oils and polyorganosiloxanes). Thefollowing provides specific non-limiting examples of some of theadditional ingredients that can be used with the compositions of thepresent invention.

i. Sunscreen Agents

UV absorption agents that can be used in combination with thecompositions of the present invention include chemical and physicalsunblocks. Non-limiting examples of chemical sunblocks that can be usedinclude para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (glyceryl PABA,amyldimethyl PABA and octyldimethyl PABA), butyl PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyldihydroxypropyl PABA, benzophenones (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone,benzophenone, and benzophenone-1 through 12), cinnamates (octylmethoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octylmethoxy cinnamate,cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, DEA-methoxycinnamate, ethyldiisopropylcinnamate, glyceryl octanoate dimethoxycinnamate and ethylmethoxycinnamate), cinnamate esters, salicylates (homomethyl salicylate,benzyl salicylate, glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl salicylate, etc.),anthranilates, ethyl urocanate, homosalate, octisalate, dibenzoylmethanederivatives (e.g., avobenzone), octocrylene, octyl triazone, digalloytrioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, lawsone with dihydroxyacetone,ethylhexyl triazone, dioctyl butamido triazone, benzylidene malonatepolysiloxane, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate, bis diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, bisbenzoxazoylphenyl ethylhexylimino triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane,methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyiphenol, andbis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine,4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate.Non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include, kaolin, talc,petrolatum and metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide and zinc oxide).Compositions of the present invention can have UVA and UVB absorptionproperties. The compositions can have an sun protection factor (SPF) of2, 3, 4, 56, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45,50, 55, 60, 70, 80, 90 or more, or any integer or derivative therein.

ii. Moisturizing Agents

Non-limiting examples of moisturizing agents that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include amino acids, chondroitinsulfate, diglycerin, erythritol, fructose, glucose, glycerin, glycerolpolymers, glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hydrogenated honey, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, lactitol,maltitol, maltose, mannitol, natural moisturizing factor, PEG-15butanediol, polyglyceryl sorbitol, salts of pyrollidone carboxylic acid,potassium PCA, propylene glycol, sodium glucuronate, sodium PCA,sorbitol, sucrose, trehalose, urea, and xylitol.

Other examples include acetylated lanolin, acetylated lanolin alcohol,acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates copolymer,alanine, algae extract, aloe barbadensis, aloe-barbadensis extract, aloebarbadensis gel, althea officinalis extract, aluminum starchoctenylsuccinate, aluminum stearate, apricot (prunus armeniaca) kerneloil, arginine, arginine aspartate, arnica montana extract, ascorbicacid, ascorbyl palmitate, aspartic acid, avocado (persea gratissima)oil, barium sulfate, barrier sphingolipids, butyl alcohol, beeswax,behenyl alcohol, beta-sitosterol, BHT, birch (betula alba) bark extract,borage (borago officinalis) extract, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol,butcherbroom (ruscus aculeatus) extract, butylene glycol, calendulaofficinalis extract, calendula officinalis oil, candelilla (euphorbiacerifera) wax, canola oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cardamon(elettaria cardamomum) oil, carnauba (copernicia cerifera) wax,carrageenan (chondrus crispus), carrot (daucus carota sativa) oil,castor (ricinus communis) oil, ceramides, ceresin, ceteareth-5,ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, cetearyl octanoate, ceteth-20, ceteth-24,cetyl acetate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, chamomile (anthemisnobilis) oil, cholesterol, cholesterol esters, cholesterylhydroxystearate, citric acid, clary (salvia sclarea) oil, cocoa(theobroma cacao) butter, coco-caprylate/caprate, coconut (cocosnucifera) oil, collagen, collagen amino acids, corn (zea mays) oil,fatty acids, decyl oleate, dextrin, diazolidinyl urea, dimethiconecopolyol, dimethiconol, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl succinate,dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, DMDM hydantoin, DNA,erythritol, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl linoleate, eucalyptus globulus oil,evening primrose (oenothera biennis) oil, fatty acids, tructose,gelatin, geranium maculatum oil, glucosamine, glucose glutamate,glutamic acid, glycereth-26, glycerin, glycerol, glyceryl distearate,glyceryl hydroxystearate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl linoleate, glycerylmyristate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE,glycine, glycol stearate, glycol stearate SE, glycosaminoglycans, grape(vitis vinifera) seed oil, hazel (corylus americana) nut oil, hazel(corylus avellana) nut oil, hexylene glycol, honey, hyaluronic acid,hybrid safflower (carthamus tinctorius) oil, hydrogenated castor oil,hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenatedlanolin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydrogenated palm glyceride,hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenatedtallow glyceride, hydrogenated vegetable oil, hydrolyzed collagen,hydrolyzed elastin, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, hydrolyzed keratin,hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxylated lanolin, hydroxyproline,imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, isocetyl stearate,isocetyl stearoyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl isostearate,isopropyl lanolate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropylstearate, isostearamide DEA, isostearic acid, isostearyl lactate,isostearyl neopentanoate, jasmine (jasminum officinale) oil, jojoba(buxus chinensis) oil, kelp, kukui (aleurites moluccana) nut oil,lactamide MEA, laneth-16, laneth-10 acetate, lanolin, lanolin acid,lanolin alcohol, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lavender (lavandulaangustifolia) oil, lecithin, lemon (citrus medica limonum) oil, linoleicacid, linolenic acid, macadamia ternifolia nut oil, magnesium stearate,magnesium sulfate, maltitol, matricaria (chamomilla recutita) oil,methyl glucose sesquistearate, methylsilanol PCA, microcrystalline wax,mineral oil, mink oil, mortierella oil, myristyl lactate, myristylmyristate, myristyl propionate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate,octyl hydroxystearate, octyl palmitate, octyl salicylate, octylstearate, oleic acid, olive (olea europaea) oil, orange (citrusaurantium dulcis) oil, palm (elaeis guineensis) oil, palmitic acid,pantethine, panthenol, panthenyl ethyl ether, paraffin, PCA, peach(prunus persica) kernel oil, peanut (arachis hypogaea) oil, PEG-8 C12-18ester, PEG-15 cocamine, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate,PEG-5 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-7 hydrogenatedcastor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG40 sorbitan peroleate,PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-10 soy sterol, PEG-2 stearate, PEG-8 stearate,PEG-20 stearate, PEG-32 stearate, PEG40 stearate, PEG-50 stearate,PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 stearate, pentadecalactone, peppermint (menthapiperita) oil, petrolatum, phospholipids, polyamino sugar condensate,polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyquaternium-24, polysorbate 20,polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 85,potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium sorbate, potassiumstearate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propyleneglycol laurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol stearate SE,PVP, pyridoxine dipalmitate, quaternium-15, quaternium-18 hectorite,quaternium-22, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice (oryza sativa) bran oil,RNA, rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) oil, rose oil, safflower(carthamus tinctorius) oil, sage (salvia officinalis) oil, salicylicacid, sandalwood (santalum album) oil, serine, serum protein, sesame(sesamum indicum) oil, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii), silk powder,sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, sodium lactate, sodiumpalmitate, sodium PCA, sodium polyglutamate, sodium stearate, solublecollagen, sorbic acid, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitanpalmitate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soybean(glycine soja) oil, sphingolipids, squalane, squalene, stearamideMEA-stearate, stearic acid, stearoxy dimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate,stearyl heptanoate, stearyl stearate, sunflower (helianthus annuus) seedoil, sweet almond (prunus amygdalus dulcis) oil, synthetic beeswax,tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tribehenin,tridecyl neopentanoate, tridecyl stearate, triethanolamine, tristearin,urea, vegetable oil, water, waxes, wheat (triticum vulgare) germ oil,and ylang ylang (cananga odorata) oil.

iii. Antioxidants

Non-limiting examples of antioxidants that can be used with thecompositions of the present invention include acetyl cysteine, ascorbicacid polypeptide, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl methylsilanolpectinate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, BHA, BHT, t-butylhydroquinone, cysteine, cysteine HCl, diamylhydroquinone,di-t-butylhydroquinone, dicetyl thiodipropionate, dioleyl tocopherylmethylsilanol, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, distearyl thiodipropionate,ditridecyl thiodipropionate, dodecyl gallate, erythorbic acid, esters ofascorbic acid, ethyl ferulate, ferulic acid, gallic acid esters,hydroquinone, isooctyl thioglycolate, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbate,magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, methylsilanol ascorbate, natural botanicalanti-oxidants such as green tea or grape seed extracts,nordihydroguaiaretic acid, octyl gallate, phenylthioglycolic acid,potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, potassium sulfite, propylgallate, quinones, rosmarinic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium bisulfite,sodium erythorbate, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, superoxidedismutase, sodium thioglycolate, sorbityl furfural, thiodiglycol,thiodiglycolamide, thiodiglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, thiolacticacid, thiosalicylic acid, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12,tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherol, tocophersolan, tocopherylacetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, tocopherylsuccinate, and tris(nonylphenyl)phosphite.

iv. Structuring Agents

In other non-limiting aspects, the compositions of the present inventioncan include a structuring agent. Structuring agents, in certain aspects,assist in providing rheological characteristics to the composition tocontribute to the composition's stability. In other aspects, structuringagents can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Non-limitingexamples of structuring agents include stearic acid, palmitic acid,stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmiticacid, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an averageof about 1 to about 21 ethylene oxide units, the polyethylene glycolether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethyleneoxide units, and mixtures thereof.

v. Emulsifiers

In some non-limiting aspects, the compositions can include one or moreemulsifiers. Emulsifiers can reduce the interfacial tension betweenphases and improve the formulation and stability of an emulsion. Theemulsifiers can be nonionic, cationic, anionic, and zwitterionicemulsifiers (See McCutcheon's (1986); U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,011,681;4,421,769; 3,755,560). Non-limiting examples include esters of glycerin,esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol,fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, esters of sorbitol, esters ofsorbitan anhydrides, carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers ofglucose, ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates,polyoxyethylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyllactylates, soaps, TEA stearate, DEA oleth-3 phosphate, polyethyleneglycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5soya sterol, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, PPG-2methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, polysorbate 80, cetylphosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixturesthereof.

vi. Silicone Containing Compounds

In non-limiting aspects, silicone containing compounds include anymember of a family of polymeric products whose molecular backbone ismade up of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms with side groupsattached to the silicon atoms. By varying the —Si—O— chain lengths, sidegroups, and crosslinking, silicones can be synthesized into a widevariety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel tosolids.

The silicone containing compounds that can be used in the context of thepresent invention include those described in this specification or thoseknown to a person of ordinary skill in the art. Non-limiting examplesinclude silicone oils (e.g., volatile and non-volatile oils), gels, andsolids. In preferred aspects, the silicon containing compounds includesa silicone oils such as a polyorganosiloxane. Non-limiting examples ofpolyorganosiloxanes include dimethicone, cyclomethicone,polysilicone-11, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone,stearoxytrimethylsilane, or mixtures of these and other organosiloxanematerials in any given ratio in order to achieve the desired consistencyand application characteristics depending upon the intended application(e.g., to a particular area such as the skin, hair, or eyes). A“volatile silicone oil” includes a silicone oil have a low heat ofvaporization, i.e. normally less than about 50 cal per gram of siliconeoil. Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils include:cyclomethicones such as Dow Corning 344 Fluid, Dow Corning 345 Fluid,Dow Corning 244 Fluid, and Dow Corning 245 Fluid, Volatile Silicon 7207(Union Carbide Corp., Danbury, Conn.); low viscosity dimethicones, i.e.dimethicones having a viscosity of about 50 cst or less (e.g.,dimethicones such as Dow Corning 200-0.5 cst Fluid). The Dow CorningFluids are available from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland, Mich.Cyclomethicone and dimethicone are described in the Third Edition of theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (incorporated by reference) ascyclic dimethyl polysiloxane compounds and a mixture of fully methylatedlinear siloxane polymers end-blocked with trimethylsiloxy units,respectively. Other non-limiting volatile silicone oils that can be usedin the context of the present invention include those available fromGeneral Electric Co., Silicone Products Div., Waterford, N.Y. and SWSSilicones Div. of Stauffer Chemical Co., Adrian, Mich.

vii. Essential Oils

Essential oils include oils derived from herbs, flowers, trees, andother plants. Such oils are typically present as tiny droplets betweenthe plant's cells, and can be extracted by several method known to thoseof skill in the art (e.g., steam distilled, enfleurage (i.e., extractionby using fat), maceration, solvent extraction, or mechanical pressing).When these types of oils are exposed to air they tend to evaporate(i.e., a volatile oil). As a result, many essential oils are colorless,but with age they can oxidize and become darker. Essential oils areinsoluble in water and are soluble in alcohol, ether, fixed oils(vegetal), and other organic solvents. Typical physical characteristicsfound in essential oils include boiling points that vary from about 160°to 240° C. and densities ranging from about 0.759 to about 1.096.

Essential oils typically are named by the plant from which the oil isfound. For example, rose oil or peppermint oil are derived from rose orpeppermint plants, respectively. Non-limiting examples of essential oilsthat can be used in the context of the present invention include sesameoil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, Spanish sageoil, Spanish rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berriesoil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedaroil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil,eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geraniumoil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil,lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrhoil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepperoil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwoodoil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, orylang ylang. Other essential oils known to those of skill in the art arealso contemplated as being useful within the context of the presentinvention.

viii. Thickening Agents

Thickening agents, including thickener or gelling agents, includesubstances that can increase the viscosity of a composition. Thickenersinclude those that can increase the viscosity of a composition withoutsubstantially modifying the efficacy of the active ingredient within thecomposition. Thickeners can also increase the stability of thecompositions of the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of additional thickening agents that can be usedin the context of the present invention include carboxylic acidpolymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers,polysaccharides, and gums. Examples of carboxylic acid polymers includecrosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived fromacrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of theseacrylic acids and the substituted acrylic acids, wherein thecrosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds andis derived from a polyhydric alcohol (see U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,087,445;4,509,949; 2,798,053; CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,Fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80). Examples of commercially availablecarboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers ofacrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol(e.g., Carbopol™ 900 series from B. F. Goodrich).

Non-limiting examples of crosslinked polyacrylate polymers includecationic and nonionic polymers. Examples are described in U.S. Pat. Nos.5,100,660; 4,849,484; 4,835,206; 4,628,078; 4,599,379).

Non-limiting examples of polyacrylamide polymers (including nonionicpolyacrylamide polymers including substituted branched or unbranchedpolymers) include polyacrylamide, isoparaffin and laureth-7, multi-blockcopolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acidsand substituted acrylic acids.

Non-limiting examples of polysaccharides include cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionatecarboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose,hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulosesulfate, and mixtures thereof. Another example is an alkyl substitutedcellulose where the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer ishydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated) toform a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then further modified with aC₁₀-C₃₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl group through an etherlinkage. Typically these polymers are ethers of C₁₀-C₃₀ straight orbranched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Other usefulpolysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-3)linked glucose units with a (1-6) linked glucose every three unit.

Non-limiting examples of gums that can be used with the presentinvention include acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate,amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine,carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluroinic acid, hydratedsilica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp,locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan,propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboyxmethyl dextran,sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

b. Pharmaceutical Ingredients

Pharmaceutical ingredients are also contemplated as being useful withthe emulsion compositions of the present invention. Non-limitingexamples of pharmaceutical ingredients include anti-acne agents, agentsused to treat rosacea, analgesics, anesthetics, anorectals,antihistamines, anti-inflammatory agents including non-steroidalanti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals,antimicrobials, anti-cancer actives, scabicides, pediculicides,antineoplastics, antiperspirants, antipruritics, antipsoriatic agents,antiseborrheic agents, biologically active proteins and peptides, burntreatment agents, cauterizing agents, depigmenting agents, depilatories,diaper rash treatment agents, enzymes, hair growth stimulants, hairgrowth retardants including DFMO and its salts and analogs, hemostatics,kerotolytics, canker sore treatment agents, cold sore treatment agents,dental and periodontal treatment agents, photosensitizing actives, skinprotectant/barrier agents, steroids including hormones andcorticosteroids, sunburn treatment agents, sunscreens, transdermalactives, nasal actives, vaginal actives, wart treatment agents, woundtreatment agents, wound healing agents, etc.

C. Kits

Kits are also contemplated as being used in certain aspects of thepresent invention. For instance, a composition of the present inventioncan be included in a kit. A kit can include a container. Containers caninclude a bottle, a metal tube, a laminate tube, a plastic tube, adispenser, a pressurized container, a barrier container, a package, acompartment, a lipstick container, a compact container, cosmetic pansthat can hold cosmetic compositions, or other types of containers suchas injection or blow-molded plastic containers into which thedispersions or compositions or desired bottles, dispensers, or packagesare retained. The kit and/or container can include indicia on itssurface. The indicia, for example, can be a word, a phrase, anabbreviation, a picture, or a symbol.

The containers can dispense a pre-determined amount of a composition. Inother embodiments, the container can be squeezed (e.g., metal, laminate,or plastic tube) to dispense a desired amount of the composition. Thecomposition can be dispensed as a spray, foam, an aerosol, a liquid, afluid, or a semi-solid. The containers can have spray, pump, or squeezemechanisms. A kit can also include instructions for using the kit and/orcompositions. Instructions can include an explanation of how to apply,use, and maintain the compositions.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are included to demonstrate certain non-limitingaspects of the invention. It should be appreciated by those of skill inthe art that the techniques disclosed in the examples which followrepresent techniques discovered by the inventor to function well in thepractice of the invention. However, those of skill in the art should, inlight of the present disclosure, appreciate that many changes can bemade in the specific embodiments which are disclosed and still obtain alike or similar result without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention.

Example 1 Materials and Methods for Obtaining Extracts

But for Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, all of the remaining extractslisted in Tables 1-6 were prepared by first crushing the plant part(e.g., leaf, root, or bark) followed by drying. The dried plant materialwas then washed with heptane, followed by washing with ethyl acetate.The washed material was then extracted with 100% methanol. The extractwas then collected and subjected to the assays described below.

For Kunzea ericoides leaf extract, leafs were collected and dried. Thedried leafs were then milled and then extracted with water. The aqueousliquid was collected, preservatives were added, and the liquid wasstored in a 50/50 solution of butylene glycol and denatured alcohol.

Each extract in Table 1 was prepared by and provided to the inventors bySouthern Cross Botanicals Pty. Ltd., New South Wales, Australia.

Example 2 Efficacy of Extracts

Each extract prepared according to the processes described in Example 1was subjected to a variety of assays to determine their skin efficacy.The following Tables 1-6 provide a summary of these data. A descriptionof the assays used to obtain these data is provided below Table 6.Tables 2-6 provide particular combinations of extracts shown to havemulti-beneficial properties for skin.

TABLE 1* Binding Alpha-2 COX-1 COX-2 AO MMP-1 LO Tyrosinase TNF-αCollagen B16 Adrenergic Extract** Inhib. Inhib. Activity Inhib. Inhib.Inhib. Inhib. Simulated Inhib. Receptor Quassia Yes — Yes Yes Yes YesYes — Yes — undulata leaf Biophytum Yes — Yes — — Yes — — — —petersianum leaf Allophylus Yes — — — — Yes Yes — — — africanus leafBuchanania Yes Yes Yes Yes — — — — — — reticulata leaf Melanorrhoea YesYes Yes Yes — — — Yes — — laccifera leaf Canthium Yes — — — — — Yes Yes— — dicoccum leaf Aporosa Yes Yes Yes Yes — — Yes — — — tetrapleura leafDetarium Yes — Yes Yes — Yes Yes Yes Yes — microcarpum root Burkea Yes —Yes Yes — Yes — — — — africana bark Nauclea Yes — Yes — — Yes — Yes — —latifolia root Spondias Yes — Yes — — — Yes Yes — — pinnata leafParinari — — Yes Yes — — — Yes — — annamensis leaf Randia — — — Yes — —— — — Yes dasycarpa leaf Capparis Yes — Yes — Yes — — Yes — — micranthaleaf Kunzea — — — — — — Yes Yes — — ericoides leaf Diospyros Yes — YesYes — Yes Yes Yes — — mespiliformis leaf Khaya Yes Yes Yes Yes — Yes —Yes — — senegalensis bark Crossopteryx Yes — Yes Yes — Yes Yes — — —febrofiga leaf Bombax Yes — Yes — — Yes Yes Yes — — costatum leaf Knema— — Yes Yes — Yes Yes — — Yes globularia leaf Garcinia — Yes Yes — — —Yes — — Yes gaudichaudii leaf Garcinia Yes — Yes Yes Yes — Yes Yes — —benthami leaf Machilus Yes Yes — Yes — — Yes odoratissimus leaf *Inhib.= Inhibition. AO = Antioxidant. LO = Lipoxygenase. B16 = B16Melanogenesis. Collagen Stimulated = collagen production stimulated.**Yes means that the extract provided a level of inhibition, antioxidantactivity, increased collagen production, and/or binding of alpha-2adrenergic receptor to be efficacious in treating skin conditionsassociated with such enzymes, proteins, binding sites, and antioxidants.

TABLE 2* COX-1 COX-2 AO MMP-1 LO Tyrosinase TNF-α Collagen B16 Extract**Inhib. Inhib. Activity Inhib. Inhib. Inhib. Inhib. Simulated Inhib.Quassia undulata leaf Yes — Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes — Yes Melanorrhoealaccifera leaf Yes Yes Yes Yes — — — Yes — *Inhib. = Inhibition. AO =Antioxidant. LO = Lipoxygenase. B16 = B16 Melanogenesis. CollagenStimulated = collagen production stimulated. **Yes means that theextract provided a level of inhibition, antioxidant activity, increasedcollagen production, and/or binding of alpha-2 adrenergic receptor to beefficacious in treating skin conditions associated with such enzymes,proteins, binding sites, and antioxidants.

The combination in Table 2 was shown to have a broad range of skinbenefits, which makes such combination useful as amulti-purpose/multi-functional skin treatment composition.

TABLE 3* COX-1 COX-2 AO MMP-1 LO Tyrosinase TNF-α Collagen B16 Extract**Inhib. Inhib. Activity Inhib. Inhib. Inhib. Inhib. Simulated Inhib.Quassia undulata leaf Yes — Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes — Yes Buchananiareticulata leaf Yes Yes Yes Yes — — — — — Canthium dicoccum leaf Yes — —— — — Yes Yes — *Inhib. = Inhibition. AO = Antioxidant. LO =Lipoxygenase. B16 = B16 Melanogenesis. Collagen Stimulated = collagenproduction stimulated. **Yes means that the extract provided a level ofinhibition, antioxidant activity, increased collagen production, and/orbinding of alpha-2 adrenergic receptor to be efficacious in treatingskin conditions associated with such enzymes, proteins, binding sites,and antioxidants.

The combination in Table 3 was shown to have a broad range of skinbenefits, which makes such combination useful as amulti-purpose/multi-functional skin treatment composition.

TABLE 4* COX-1 COX-2 AO MMP-1 LO Tyrosinase TNF-α Collagen B16 Extract**Inhib. Inhib. Activity Inhib. Inhib. Inhib. Inhib. Simulated Inhib.Quassia undulata leaf Yes — Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes — Yes Canthium dicoccumleaf Yes — — — — — Yes Yes — Aporosa tetrapleura leaf Yes Yes Yes Yes —— Yes — — *Inhib. = Inhibition. AO = Antioxidant. LO = Lipoxygenase. B16= B16 Melanogenesis. Collagen Stimulated = collagen productionstimulated. **Yes means that the extract provided a level of inhibition,antioxidant activity, increased collagen production, and/or binding ofalpha-2 adrenergic receptor to be efficacious in treating skinconditions associated with such enzymes, proteins, binding sites, andantioxidants.

The combination in Table 4 was shown to have a broad range of skinbenefits, which makes such combination useful as amulti-purpose/multi-functional skin treatment composition.

TABLE 5* Binding Alpha-2 COX-1 COX-2 AO MMP-1 LO Tyrosinase TNF-αCollagen B16 Adrenergic Extract** Inhib. Inhib. Activity Inhib. Inhib.Inhib. Inhib. Simulated Inhib. Receptor Quassia Yes — Yes Yes Yes YesYes — Yes — undulata leaf Kunzea — — — — — — Yes Yes — — ericoides leafGarcinia — Yes Yes — — — Yes — — Yes gaudichaudii leaf *Inhib. =Inhibition. AO = Antioxidant. LO = Lipoxygenase. B16 = B16Melanogenesis. Collagen Stimulated = collagen production stimulated.**Yes means that the extract provided a level of inhibition, antioxidantactivity, increased collagen production, and/or binding of alpha-2adrenergic receptor to be efficacious in treating skin conditionsassociated with such enzymes, proteins, binding sites, and antioxidants.

The combination in Table 5 was shown to have a broad range of skinbenefits, which makes such combination useful as amulti-purpose/multi-functional skin treatment composition.

TABLE 6* Binding Alpha-2 COX-1 COX-2 AO MMP-1 LO Tyrosinase TNF-αCollagen B16 Adrenergic Extract** Inhib. Inhib. Activity Inhib. Inhib.Inhib. Inhib. Simulated Inhib. Receptor Quassia Yes — Yes Yes Yes YesYes — Yes — undulata leaf Buchanania Yes Yes Yes Yes — — — — — —reticulata leaf Canthium Yes — — — — — Yes Yes — — dicoccum leaf Randia— — — Yes — — — — — Yes dasycarpa leaf *Inhib. = Inhibition. AO =Antioxidant. LO = Lipoxygenase. B16 = B16 Melanogenesis. CollagenStimulated = collagen production stimulated. **Yes means that theextract provided a level of inhibition, antioxidant activity, increasedcollagen production, and/or binding of alpha-2 adrenergic receptor to beefficacious in treating skin conditions associated with such enzymes,proteins, binding sites, and antioxidants

The combination in Table 6 was shown to have a broad range of skinbenefits, which makes such combination useful as amulti-purpose/multi-functional skin treatment composition

Antioxidant (AO) Assay:

An in vitro bioassay that measures the total anti-oxidant capacity of anextract. The assay relies on the ability of antioxidants in the sampleto inhibit the oxidation of ABTS® (2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazolinesulphonate]) to ABTS®⋅+ by metmyoglobin. The antioxidant system ofliving organisms includes enzymes such as superoxide dismutase,catalase, and glutathione peroxidase; macromolecules such as albumin,ceruloplasmin, and ferritin; and an array of small molecules, includingascorbic acid, α-tocopherol, β-carotene, reduced glutathione, uric acid,and bilirubin. The sum of endogenous and food-derived antioxidantsrepresents the total antioxidant activity of the extracellular fluid.Cooperation of all the different antioxidants provides greaterprotection against attack by reactive oxygen or nitrogen radicals, thanany single compound alone. Thus, the overall antioxidant capacity maygive more relevant biological information compared to that obtained bythe measurement of individual components, as it considers the cumulativeeffect of all antioxidants present in plasma and body fluids. Thecapacity of the antioxidants in the sample to prevent ABTS oxidation iscompared with that of Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherol analogue, andis quantified as molar Trolox equivalents.

Anti-Oxidant capacity kit #709001 from Cayman Chemical (Ann Arbor, Mich.USA) was used as an in vitro bioassay to measure the total anti-oxidantcapacity of each of the extracts identified in Table 1. The protocol wasfollowed according to manufacturer recommendations. The assay relied onantioxidants in the sample to inhibit the oxidation of ABTS®(2,2′-azino-di-[3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulphonate]) to ABTS®⋅+ bymetmyoglobin. The capacity of the antioxidants in the sample to preventABTS oxidation was compared with that Trolox, a water-soluble tocopherolanalogue, and was quantified as a molar Trolox equivalent.

Tyrosinase Activity Assay:

In mammalian cells, tyrosinase catalyzes two steps in the multi-stepbiosynthesis of melanin pigments from tyrosine (and from thepolymerization of dopachrome). Tyrosinase is localized in melanocytesand produces melanin (aromatic quinone compounds) that imparts color toskin, hair, and eyes.

Purified mushroom tyrosinase (Sigma) was incubated with its substrateL-Dopa (Fisher) in the presence or absence of each of the extracts inTable 1. Pigment formation was evaluated by colorimetric plate readingat 490 nm. The percent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity wascalculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability oftest extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme. Test extractinhibition was compared with that of kojic acid (Sigma).

Tumor Necrosis Factor Alpha (TNF-α) Assay:

The prototype ligand of the TNF superfamily, TNF-α, is a pleiotropiccytokine that plays a central role in inflammation. Increase in itsexpression is associated with an up regulation in pro-inflammatoryactivity. This bioassay analyzes the effect of extracts on theproduction of TNF-α by human epidermal keratinocytes. The endpoint ofthis assay is a spectrophotometric measurement that reflects thepresence of TNF-α and cellular viability. The assay employs thequantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonalantibody specific for TNF-α has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples are pipetted into the wells and any TNF-α □presentis bound by the immobilized antibody. After washing away any unboundsubstances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibody specific for TNF-α isadded to the wells. Following a wash to remove any unboundantibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution is added to the wells andcolor develops in proportion to the amount of TNF-α bound in the initialstep using a microplate reader for detection at 450 nm. The colordevelopment is stopped and the intensity of the color is measured.

Subconfluent normal human adult keratinocytes (Cascade Biologics)cultivated in EpiLife standard growth medium (Cascade Biologics) at 37°C. in 5% CO₂, were treated with phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate (PMA, 10ng/ml, Sigma Chemical, #P1585-1MG) and each of the extracts identifiedin Table 1 for 6 hours. PMA has been shown to cause a dramatic increasein TNF-α secretion which peaks at 6 hours after treatment. Followingincubation, cell culture medium was collected and the amount of TNF-αsecretion quantified using a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay(ELISA) from R&D Systems (#DTA00C).

Lipoxygenase (LO) Assay:

An in vitro lipoxygenase (LO) inhibition assay. LOs are non-hemeiron-containing dioxygenases that catalyze the addition of molecularoxygen to fatty acids. Linoleate and arachidonate are the mainsubstrates for LOs in plants and animals. Arachadonic acid may then beconverted to hydroxyeicosotrienenoic (HETE) acid derivatives, that aresubsequently converted to leukotirenes, potent inflammatory mediators.This assay provides an accurate and convenient method for screeninglipoxygenase inhibitors by measuring the hydroperoxides generated fromthe incubation of a lipoxygenase (5-, 12-, or 15-LO) with arachidonicacid.

The Colorimetric LO Inhibitor screening kit (#760700, Cayman Chemical)was used to determine the ability of each of the extracts identified inTable 1 to inhibit enzyme activity. Purified 15-lipoxygenase and testextracts were mixed in assay buffer and incubated with shaking for 10min at room temperature. Following incubation, arachidonic acid wasadded to initiate the reaction and mixtures incubated for an additional10 min at room temperature. Colorimetric substrate was added toterminate catalysis and color progression was evaluated by fluorescenceplate reading at 490 nm. The percent inhibition of lipoxyganse activitywas calculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the abilityof test extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Cyclooxygenase (COX) Assay:

An in vitro cyclooxygenase-1 and -2 (COX-1, -2) inhibition assay. COX isa bifunctional enzyme exhibiting both cyclooxygenase and peroxidaseactivities. The cyclooxygenase activity converts arachidonic acid to ahydroperoxy endoperoxide (Prostaglandin G2; PGG2) and the peroxidasecomponent reduces the endoperoxide (Prostaglandin H2; PGH2) to thecorresponding alcohol, the precursor of prostaglandins, thromboxanes,and prostacyclins. This COX Inhibitor screening assay measures theperoxidase component of cyclooxygenases. The peroxidase activity isassayed colorimetrically by monitoring the appearance of oxidizedN,N,N′,N′-tetramethyl-p-phenylenediamine (TMPD). This inhibitorscreening assay includes both COX-1 and COX-2 enzymes in order to screenisozyme-specific inhibitors.

The Colormetric COX (ovine) Inhibitor screening assay (#760111, CaymanChemical), was used to analyze the effects of each of the extractsidentified in Table 1 on the activity of purified cyclooxygnase enzyme(COX-1 or COX-2). According to manufacturer instructions, purifiedenzyme, heme and test extracts were mixed in assay buffer and incubatedwith shaking for 15 min at room temperature. Following incubation,arachidonic acid and colorimetric substrate were added to initiate thereaction. Color progression was evaluated by colorimetric plate readingat 590 nm. The percent inhibition of COX-1 or COX-2 activity wascalculated compared to non-treated controls to determine the ability oftest extracts to inhibit the activity of purified enzyme.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP1) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP1 substratesinclude collagen IV. The Molecular Probes Enz/ChekGelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (#E12055) utilizes a fluorogenicgelatin substrate to detect MMP1 protease activity. Upon proteolyticcleavage, bright green fluorescence is revealed and may be monitoredusing a fluorescent microplate reader to measure enzymatic activity.

The Enz/Chek Gelatinase/Collagenase Assay kit (#E12055) from Invitrogenwas used as an in vitro assay to measure MMP1 enzymatic activity foreach of the extracts identified in Table 1. The assay relies upon theability of purified MMP1 enzyme to degrade a fluorogenic gelatinsubstrate. Once the substrate is specifically cleaved by MMP1 brightgreen fluorescence is revealed and may be monitored using a fluorescentmicroplate reader. Test materials are incubated in the presence orabsence of the purified enzyme and substrate to determine their proteaseinhibitor capacity.

Binding of Alpha-2 Adrenergic Receptor Assay:

This assay provides data on the binding affinity (K_(D)) and receptornumbers that have been bound (B_(max)) for the extracts identified inTable 1. Binding of this receptor produces vasoconstrictive propertiesin blood vessels. Therefore, an alpha-2 adrenergic receptor agonist canbe effective in treating erythemic skin, rosacea, inflamed skin, actinicpurpura, peri-procedureal bruising of the skin, etc.

Human HT29 cells were used as the receptor source. [³H]MK-912 (60-80Ci/mmol) was used as the radioligand, with a final concentration of 0.75nM. The referenced compound was oxymetazoline. The non-specificdeterminant was L(−)-Norepinephrine at a concentration of 100 uM. Thepositive control was rauwolscine. The incubation conditions were carriedout in 50 nm TRIS-HCl (pH 7.5) at 25° C. for 60 minutes. The reaction isterminated by rapid vacuum filtration onto glass fiber filters.Radioactivity trapped onto the filters is determined and compared tocontrol values in order to ascertain any interactions of the testcompound (extract) with the alpha_(2A) adrenergic binding site. Resultsare provided in Table 1. References explaining this assay in furtherdetail include (1) Bylund et al., Alpha-2A and 2B Adrenergic ReceptorSubtypes: Antagonist Binding in Tissues and Cell Lines Containing OnlyOne Subtype, J. Pharmac. & Exp. Ther. 245(2): 600-607 (1988) and (2)Totaro et al., [³H]L-657, 743 (MK-912): A New, High Affinity SelectiveRadioligand for Brain Alpha-2 Adrenoceptors, Life Sciences 44:459-467(1989), both of which are incorporated by reference.

Collagen Stimulation Assay:

Collagen is an extracellular matrix protein critical for skin structure.Increased synthesis of collagen helps improve skin firmness andelasticity. This bioassay analyzes the effect of extracts on theproduction of procollagen peptide (a precursor to collagen) by humanepidermal fibroblasts. The endpoint of this assay is aspectrophotometric measurement that reflects the presence of procollagenpeptide and cellular viability. The assay employs the quantitativesandwich enzyme immunoassay technique whereby a monoclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide has been pre-coated onto a microplate.Standards and samples are pipetted into the wells and any procollagenpeptide □present is bound by the immobilized antibody. After washingaway any unbound substances, an enzyme-linked polyclonal antibodyspecific for procollagen peptide is added to the wells. Following a washto remove any unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substrate solution isadded to the wells and color develops in proportion to the amount ofprocollagen peptide bound in the initial step using a microplate readerfor detection at 450 nm. The color development is stopped and theintensity of the color is measured.

Subconfluent normal human adult epidermal fibroblasts (CascadeBiologics) cultivated in standard DMEM growth medium with 10% fetalbovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂, were treated with each ofthe extracts identified in Table 1 for 3 days. Following incubation,cell culture medium was collected and the amount of procollagen peptidesecretion quantified using a sandwich enzyme linked immuno-sorbant assay(ELISA) from Takara (#MK101).

B16 Melanogenesis Assay:

Melanogenesis is the process by which melanocytes produce melanin, anaturally produced pigment that imparts color to skin, hair, and eyes.Inhibiting melanogenesis is beneficial to prevent skin darkening andlighten dark spots associated with aging. This bioassay utilizes B16-F1melanocytes (ATCC), an immortalized mouse melanoma cell line, to analyzethe effect of compounds on melanogenesis. The endpoint of this assay isa spectrophotometric measurement of melanin production and cellularviability. B16-F1 melanocytes, cultivated in standard DMEM growth mediumwith 10% fetal bovine serum (Mediatech) at 37° C. in 10% CO₂, weretreated with each of the extracts identified in Table 1 for 6 days.Following incubation, melanin secretion was measured by absorbance at405 nm and cellular viability was quantified.

Example 3 Testing Vehicles and Sample Compositions

Tables 7 and 8 describe generic skin testing formulations in which askin active ingredient can be incorporated into to determine the typesof skin benefits that can be attributed to the skin active ingredient.These formulations are prepared in such a manner that any resulting skinbenefit from topical application of the formula to skin can be directlyattributed to the skin active ingredient being tested. In the context ofthe present invention, the skin active ingredient that can be tested canbe an extract from Kunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyrosmespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detariummicrocarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkeaafricana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata,Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus, Spondias pinnata,Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosa tetrapleura, Knemaglobularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa, Capparis micrantha,or Garcinia benthami or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23of said extracts in a single composition. Any portion of the plantextract can be used for testing (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flowerbulb, bark, fruit, seed, sap, whole plant etc.). In particular aspects,the combinations of skin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 areparticularly interesting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficialskin treatment compositions. It should be recognized that other standardtesting vehicles can also be used to determine the skin benefitproperties of extracts obtained from the plant extracts and that thefollowing formulations are non-limiting testing vehicles.

TABLE 7* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Phase A Water 84.80Xanthum gum 0.1 M-paraben 0.15 P-paraben 0.1 Citric acid 0.1 Phase BCetyl alcohol 4.0 Glyceryl stearate + PEG 100 4.0 Octyl palmitate 4.0Dimethicone 1.0 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Phase C** Skin Active Ingredient2.0 TOTAL 100 *Procedure for making composition: Sprinkle Xanthum gum inwater and mix for 10 min. Subsequently, add all ingredients in phase Aand heat to 70-75° C. Add all items in phase B to separate beaker andheat to 70-75° C. Mix phases A and B at 70-75° C. Continue mixing andallow composition to cool to 30° C. Subsequently, add phase C ingredientwhile mixing. **The plant extracts identified throughout thisspecification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as theskin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used orcombined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of theextract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particularembodiments, the extracts can be an extract from Kunzea ericoides,Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combination thereof, orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a single composition. Anyportion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract(e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seedpod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, the combinations ofskin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 are particularlyinteresting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficial skin treatmentcompositions.

TABLE 8* % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Phase A Water 78.6M-paraben 0.2 P-paraben 0.1 Na2 EDTA 0.1 Shea butter 4.5 Petrolatum 4.5Glycerin 4.0 Propylene Glycol 2.0 Finsolve TN 2.0 Phase B Sepigel 3052.0 Phase C** Skin Active Ingredient 2.0 TOTAL 100 * Add ingredients inphase A to beaker and heat to 70-75° C. while mixing. Subsequently, addthe phase B ingredient with phase A and cool to 30° C. with mixing.Subsequently, add phase C ingredient while mixing. **The plant extractsidentified throughout this specification can be incorporated into thistesting formulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can beindividually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentrationranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified asdesired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. Inparticular embodiments, the extracts can be an extract from Kunzeaericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combinationthereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a singlecomposition. Any portion of the plant can be used to create theskin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark,fruit, seed, seed pod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, thecombinations of skin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 areparticularly interesting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficialskin treatment compositions.

The formulations represented in Table 9-14 are non-limiting examples ofthe types of formulations that can be prepared in the context of thepresent invention. Any standard method can be used to prepare suchformulations. For instance, simple mixing of the ingredients in a beakercan be used. One should mix such ingredients and add heat as necessaryto obtain a homogenous composition.

Table 9 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 9composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table9 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE 9 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient*   0.1% to 10% Glycerin    3 to 40% Butylene glycol 0.0001 to10% Propylene glycol 0.0001 to 10% Phenoxyethanol 0.0001 to 10% DisodiumEDTA 0.0001 to 10% Steareth-20 0.0001 to 10% Chlorhexidine Diglunonate0.0001 to 10% Potasium Sorbate 0.0001 to 10% Preservative** 0.0001 to2%  TOTAL 100 *The plant extracts identified throughout thisspecification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as theskin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used orcombined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of theextract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particularembodiments, the extracts can be an extract from Kunzea ericoides,Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combination thereof, orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a single composition. Anyportion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract(e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seedpod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, the combinations ofskin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 are particularlyinteresting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficial skin treatmentcompositions. **Any preservative can be used identified in thespecification or those known in the art.

Table 10 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 10composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table10 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.).

TABLE 10 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient*   0.1% to 10% Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Triethanolamine0.0001 to 10% Phenonip 0.0001 to 10% Betaine 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA0.0001 to 10% Tocopheryl acetate 0.0001 to 10% Prodew 400 0.0001 to 10%Preservative** 0.0001 to 2%  TOTAL 100 *The plant extracts identifiedthroughout this specification can be incorporated into this testingformulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can beindividually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentrationranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified asdesired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. Inparticular embodiments, the extracts can be an extract from Kunzeaericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combinationthereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a singlecomposition. Any portion of the plant can be used to create theskin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark,fruit, seed, seed pod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, thecombinations of skin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 areparticularly interesting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficialskin treatment compositions. **Any preservative can be used identifiedin the specification or those known in the art.

Table 11 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 11composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table11 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 11composition can be a moisturizer.

TABLE 11 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient*   0.1% to 10% Glycerin 0.0001 to 10% Pentylene Glycol 0.0001to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10%Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 0.0001 to 10% Lipex 205 (Shea Butter)0.0001 to 10% Squalane 0.0001 to 10% Cetyl Alcohol 0.0001 to 10%Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Ceramide II 0.0001 to 10% Stearic Acid 0.0001to 10% Super Sterol Ester 0.0001 to 10% Arlacel 165 0.0001 to 10%Simulgel 600 0.0001 to 10% TOTAL 100 *The plant extracts identifiedthroughout this specification can be incorporated into this testingformulation as the skin active ingredient. The extracts can beindividually used or combined in this testing vehicle. The concentrationranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) can be modified asdesired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. Inparticular embodiments, the extracts can be an extract from Kunzeaericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combinationthereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a singlecomposition. Any portion of the plant can be used to create theskin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark,fruit, seed, seed pod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, thecombinations of skin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 areparticularly interesting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficialskin treatment compositions.

Table 12 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 12composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table12 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 12composition can be a moisturizer.

TABLE 12 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient*   0.1% to 10% Glycerin 0.0001 to 10% Pentylene Glycol 0.0001to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10%Petrolatum 0.0001 to 10% Squalane 0.0001 to 10% Cetyl Alcohol 0.0001 to10% Arlacel 165 0.0001 to 10% Dimethicone 0.0001 to 10% Simulgel 6000.0001 to 10% TOTAL 100 *The plant extracts identified throughout thisspecification can be incorporated into this testing formulation as theskin active ingredient. The extracts can be individually used orcombined in this testing vehicle. The concentration ranges of theextract (or combination of extracts) can be modified as desired orneeded by increasing or decreasing the amount of water. In particularembodiments, the extracts can be an extract from Kunzea ericoides,Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytumpetersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylusafricanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum,Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus,Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosatetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa,Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combination thereof, orat least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18,19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a single composition. Anyportion of the plant can be used to create the skin-active extract(e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seedpod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, the combinations ofskin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 are particularlyinteresting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficial skin treatmentcompositions.

Table 13 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The composition can be formulated into an emulsion (e.g.,o/w, w/o, o/w/o, w/o/w, etc.) and the additional ingredients identifiedthroughout the specification can be included into the Table 13composition (e.g., by adjusting the water content of composition).Further, the concentration ranges of the ingredients identified in Table13 can vary depending on a desired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion,moisturizer cleanser, etc.). In particular embodiments, the Table 13composition can be a sunscreen lotion.

TABLE 13 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient*   0.1% to 10% Xanthan Gum 0.0001 to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001to 10% Pentylene Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10%Pemulen TR-1 0.0001 to 10% Triethanolamine 0.0001 to 10% PVP/HexadeceneCopolymer 0.0001 to 10% Finsolv TN    10 to 30% Sorbitan Isostearate0.0001 to 10% Sunscreen Ingredient**    2 to 25% TOTAL 100 *The plantextracts identified throughout this specification can be incorporatedinto this testing formulation as the skin active ingredient. Theextracts can be individually used or combined in this testing vehicle.The concentration ranges of the extract (or combination of extracts) canbe modified as desired or needed by increasing or decreasing the amountof water. In particular embodiments, the extracts can be an extract fromKunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyros mespiliformis, Khayasenegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detarium microcarpum, Crossopteryxfebrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkea africana, Nauclea latifolia,Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata, Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilusodoratissimus, Spondias pinnata, Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis,Aporosa tetrapleura, Knema globularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randiadasycarpa, Capparis micrantha, or Garcinia benthami, or any combinationthereof, or at least 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15,16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or 23 of said extracts in a singlecomposition. Any portion of the plant can be used to create theskin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf, flower, flower bulb, bark,fruit, seed, seed pod, sap whole plant etc.). In particular aspects, thecombinations of skin actives identified in any one of Tables 2-6 areparticularly interesting for use in multi-functional/multi-beneficialskin treatment compositions.

Table 14 includes a non-limiting example of a composition of the presentinvention. The additional ingredients identified throughout thespecification can be included into the Table 14 composition (e.g., byadjusting the water content of composition). Further, the concentrationranges of the ingredients identified in Table 14 can vary depending on adesired formulation (e.g., cream, lotion, moisturizer cleanser, etc.).In particular embodiments, the Table 14 composition can be a cleanser.

TABLE 14 % Concentration Ingredient (by weight) Water q.s. Skin activeingredient*   0.1% to 10% Disodium EDTA 0.0001 to 10% Citric Acid 0.0001to 10% Pentylene Glycol 0.0001 to 10% Capryl Glycol 0.0001 to 10% sodiummethyl cocoyl taurate    10 to 30% sodium cocoamphodiacetate    1 to 10%TOTAL 100 *The plant extracts identified throughout this specificationcan be incorporated into this testing formulation as the skin activeingredient. The extracts can be individually used or combined in thistesting vehicle. The concentration ranges of the extract (or combinationof extracts) can be modified as desired or needed by increasing ordecreasing the amount of water. In particular embodiments, the extractscan be an extract from Kunzea ericoides, Quassia undulata, Diospyrosmespiliformis, Khaya senegalensis, Biophytum petersianum, Detariummicrocarpum, Crossopteryx febrofiga, Allophylus africanus, Burkeaafricana, Nauclea latifolia, Bombax costatum, Buchanania reticulata,Melanorrhoea laccifera, Machilus odoratissimus, Spondias pinnata,Canthium dicoccum, Parinari annamensis, Aporosa tetrapleura, Knemaglobularia, Garcinia gaudichaudii, Randia dasycarpa, Capparis micrantha,or Garcinia benthami, or any combination thereof, or at least 1, 2, 3,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, or23 of said extracts in a single composition. Any portion of the plantcan be used to create the skin-active extract (e.g., root, stem, leaf,flower, flower bulb, bark, fruit, seed, seed pod, sap whole plant etc.).In particular aspects, the combinations of skin actives identified inany one of Tables 2-6 are particularly interesting for use inmulti-functional/multi-beneficial skin treatment compositions.

Example 4 Assays that can be Used to Test Compositions

The efficacy of compositions comprising the plant extracts identifiedthroughout the specification, or a combination of such extracts(including, for example, the formulations identified in Tables 4-11),can be determined by methods known to those of ordinary skill in theart. The following are non-limiting assays that can be used in thecontext of the present invention. It should be recognized that othertesting procedures can be used, including, for example, objective andsubjective procedures.

Erythema Assay:

An assay to measure the reduction of skin redness can be evaluated usinga Minolta Chromometer. Skin erythema may be induced by applying a 0.2%solution of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the forearm of a subject. The areais protected by an occlusive patch for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs, the patchis removed and the irritation-induced redness can be assessed using thea* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measures changes inskin color in the red region. Immediately after reading, the area istreated with a formula containing any one, or any combination thereof,of the extracts identified throughout the specification. Repeatmeasurements are taken at regular intervals to determine the formula'sability to reduce redness, inflammation, or skin irritation.

Skin Moisture/Hydration Assay:

Skin moisture/hydration benefits can be measured by using impedancemeasurements with the Nova Dermal Phase Meter. The impedance metermeasures changes in skin moisture content. The outer layer of the skinhas distinct electrical properties. When skin is dry it conductselectricity very poorly. As it becomes more hydrated increasingconductivity results. Consequently, changes in skin impedance (relatedto conductivity) can be used to assess changes in skin hydration. Theunit can be calibrated according to instrument instructions for eachtesting day. A notation of temperature and relative humidity can also bemade. Subjects can be evaluated as follows: prior to measurement theycan equilibrate in a room with defined humidity (e.g., 30-50%) andtemperature (e.g., 68-72° C.). Three separate impedance readings can betaken on each side of the face, recorded, and averaged. The T5 settingcan be used on the impedance meter which averages the impedance valuesof every five seconds application to the face. Changes can be reportedwith statistical variance and significance.

Skin Clarity and Reduction in Freckles and Age Spots Assay:

Skin clarity and the reduction in freckles and age spots can beevaluated using a Minolta Chromometer. Changes in skin color can beassessed to determine irritation potential due to product treatmentusing the a* values of the Minolta Chroma Meter. The a* value measureschanges in skin color in the red region. This is used to determinewhether a composition is inducing irritation. The measurements can bemade on each side of the face and averaged, as left and right facialvalues. Skin clarity can also be measured using the Minolta Meter. Themeasurement is a combination of the a*, b, and L values of the MinoltaMeter and is related to skin brightness, and correlates well with skinsmoothness and hydration. Skin reading is taken as above. In onenon-limiting aspect, skin clarity can be described as L/C where C ischroma and is defined as (a²+b2)^(1/2).

Skin Dryness, Surface Fine Lines, Skin Smoothness, and Skin Tone Assay:

Skin dryness, surface fine lines, skin smoothness, and skin tone can beevaluated with clinical grading techniques. For example, clinicalgrading of skin dryness can be determined by a five point standardKligman Scale: (0) skin is soft and moist; (1) skin appears normal withno visible dryness; (2) skin feels slightly dry to the touch with novisible flaking; (3) skin feels dry, tough, and has a whitish appearancewith some scaling; and (4) skin feels very dry, rough, and has a whitishappearance with scaling. Evaluations can be made independently by twoclinicians and averaged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Tone Assay:

Clinical grading of skin tone can be performed via a ten point analognumerical scale: (10) even skin of uniform, pinkish brown color. Nodark, erythremic, or scaly patches upon examination with a hand heldmagnifying lens. Microtexture of the skin very uniform upon touch; (7)even skin tone observed without magnification. No scaly areas, butslight discolorations either due to pigmentation or erythema. Nodiscolorations more than 1 cm in diameter; (4) both skin discolorationand uneven texture easily noticeable. Slight scaliness. Skin rough tothe touch in some areas; and (1) uneven skin coloration and texture.Numerous areas of scaliness and discoloration, either hypopigmented,erythremic or dark spots. Large areas of uneven color more than 1 cm indiameter. Evaluations were made independently by two clinicians andaveraged.

Clinical Grading of Skin Smoothness Assay:

Clinical grading of skin smoothness can be analyzed via a ten pointanalog numerical scale: (10) smooth, skin is moist and glistening, noresistance upon dragging finger across surface; (7) somewhat smooth,slight resistance; (4) rough, visibly altered, friction upon rubbing;and (1) rough, flaky, uneven surface. Evaluations were madeindependently by two clinicians and averaged.

Skin Smoothness and Wrinkle Reduction Assay with Methods Disclosed inPackman et al. (1978):

Skin smoothness and wrinkle reduction can also be assessed visually byusing the methods disclosed in Packman et al. (1978). For example, ateach subject visit, the depth, shallowness and the total number ofsuperficial facial lines (SFLs) of each subject can be carefully scoredand recorded. A numerical score was obtained by multiplying a numberfactor times a depth/width/length factor. Scores are obtained for theeye area and mouth area (left and right sides) and added together as thetotal wrinkle score.

Skin Firmness Assay with a Hargens Ballistometer:

Skin firmness can be measured using a Hargens ballistometer, a devicethat evaluates the elasticity and firmness of the skin by dropping asmall body onto the skin and recording its first two rebound peaks. Theballistometry is a small lightweight probe with a relatively blunt tip(4 square mm-contact area) was used. The probe penetrates slightly intothe skin and results in measurements that are dependent upon theproperties of the outer layers of the skin, including the stratumcorneum and outer epidermis and some of the dermal layers.

Skin Softness/Suppleness Assay with a Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer:

Skin softness/suppleness can be evaluated using the Gas BearingElectrodynamometer, an instrument that measures the stress/strainproperties of the skin. The viscoelastic properties of skin correlatewith skin moisturization. Measurements can be obtained on thepredetermined site on the cheek area by attaching the probe to the skinsurface with double-stick tape. A force of approximately 3.5 gm can beapplied parallel to the skin surface and the skin displacement isaccurately measured. Skin suppleness can then be calculated and isexpressed as DSR (Dynamic Spring Rate in gm/mm).

Appearance of Lines and Wrinkles Assay with Replicas:

The appearance of lines and wrinkles on the skin can be evaluated usingreplicas, which is the impression of the skin's surface. Silicone rubberlike material can be used. The replica can be analyzed by imageanalysis. Changes in the visibility of lines and wrinkles can beobjectively quantified via the taking of silicon replicas form thesubjects' face and analyzing the replicas image using a computer imageanalysis system. Replicas can be taken from the eye area and the neckarea, and photographed with a digital camera using a low angle incidencelighting. The digital images can be analyzed with an image processingprogram and the are of the replicas covered by wrinkles or fine lineswas determined.

Surface Contour of the Skin Assay with a Profilometer/Stylus Method:

The surface contour of the skin can be measured by using theprofilometer/Stylus method. This includes either shining a light ordragging a stylus across the replica surface. The vertical displacementof the stylus can be fed into a computer via a distance transducer, andafter scanning a fixed length of replica a cross-sectional analysis ofskin profile can be generated as a two-dimensional curve. This scan canbe repeated any number of times along a fix axis to generate a simulated3-D picture of the skin. Ten random sections of the replicas using thestylus technique can be obtained and combined to generate averagevalues. The values of interest include Ra which is the arithmetic meanof all roughness (height) values computed by integrating the profileheight relative to the mean profile height. Rt which is the maximumvertical distance between the highest peak and lowest trough, and Rzwhich is the mean peak amplitude minus the mean peak height. Values aregiven as a calibrated value in mm. Equipment should be standardizedprior to each use by scanning metal standards of know values. Ra Valuecan be computed by the following equation: R_(a)=Standardize roughness;l_(m)=the traverse (scan) length; and y=the absolute value of thelocation of the profile relative to the mean profile height (x-axis).

MELANODERM™ Assay: In other non-limiting aspects, the efficacy of thecompositions of the present invention can be evaluated by using a skinanalog, such as, for example, MELANODERM™. Melanocytes, one of the cellsin the skin analog, stain positively when exposed to L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA), a precursor of melanin. The skin analog, MELANODERM™,can be treated with a variety of bases containing the compositions andwhitening agents of the present invention or with the base alone as acontrol. Alternatively, an untreated sample of the skin analog can beused as a control.

ORAC Assay:

Oxygen Radical Absorption (or Absorbance) Capacity (ORAC) of thearomatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can also be assayed bymeasuring the antioxidant activity of such ingredients or compositions.This assay can quantify the degree and length of time it takes toinhibit the action of an oxidizing agent such as oxygen radicals thatare known to cause damage cells (e.g., skin cells). The ORAC value ofthe aromatic skin-active ingredients and compositions can be determinedby methods known to those of ordinary skill in the art (see U.S.Publication Nos. 2004/0109905 and 2005/0163880; Cao et al. (1993)), allof which are incorporated by reference). In summary, the assay describedin Cao et al. (1993) measures the ability of antioxidant compounds intest materials to inhibit the decline of B-phycoerythrm (B-PE)fluorescence that is induced by a peroxyl radical generator, AAPH.

Matrix Metalloproteinase Enzyme Activity (MMP3; MMP9) Assay:

An in vitro matrix metalloprotease (MMP) inhibition assay. MMPs areextracellular proteases that play a role in many normal and diseasestates by virtue of their broad substrate specificity. MMP3 substratesinclude collagens, fibronectins, and laminin; while MMP9 substratesinclude collagen VII, fibronectins and laminin. Using Colorimetric DrugDiscovery kits from BioMol International for MMP3 (AK-400) and MMP-9(AK-410), this assay is designed to measure protease activity of MMPsusing a thiopeptide as a chromogenic substrate(Ac-PLG-[2-mercapto-4-methyl-pentanoyl]-LG-OC2H5)5,6. The MMP cleavagesite peptide bond is replaced by a thioester bond in the thiopeptide.Hydrolysis of this bond by an MMP produces a sulfhydryl group, whichreacts with DTNB [5,5′-dithiobis(2-nitrobenzoic acid), Ellman's reagent]to form 2-nitro-5-thiobenzoic acid, which can be detected by itsabsorbance at 412 nm (ε=13,600 M-1cm-1 at pH 6.0 and above 7).

All of the skin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods disclosedand claimed in this specification can be made and executed without undueexperimentation in light of the present disclosure. While theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods of this invention havebeen described in terms of particular embodiments, it will be apparentto those of skill in the art that variations may be applied to theskin-active ingredients, compositions, or methods and in the steps or inthe sequence of steps of the method described herein without departingfrom the concept, spirit and scope of the invention.

1. A method of treating a fine line or wrinkle on a person's skin, themethod comprising topically applying to the fine line or wrinkle acomposition comprising an effective amount of an aqueous, alcoholic, oraqueous-alcoholic extract of Diospyros mespiliformis leaf to treat thefine line or wrinkle.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the extract.
 3. The method ofclaim 1, wherein the composition is a lotion or a cream.
 4. The methodof claim 1, wherein the composition is a gel or a serum.
 5. The methodof claim 1, wherein the composition is an emulsion.
 6. The method ofclaim 5, wherein the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.
 7. Themethod of claim 1, wherein the Diospyros mespiliformis leaf extractincreases collagen production in the skin.
 8. The method of claim 1,wherein the Diospyros mespiliformis leaf extract reduces COX-1, MMP-1,tyrosinase, or TNF-α activity in the skin.
 9. The method of claim 1,wherein the extract is an aqueous extract.
 10. The method of claim 1,wherein the extract is an alcoholic extract.
 11. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition further comprises a moisturizing agent or ahumectant.
 12. The method of claim 1, wherein the composition furthercomprises at least 40% by weight of water.
 13. The method of claim 1,wherein the composition further comprises: water; xanthan gum; disodiumEDTA; capryl glycol; C12-15 alkyl benzoate; and titanium dioxide. 14.The method of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises: water;glycerin; butylene glycol; phenoxyethanol; disodium EDTA; potassiumsorbate; dimethicone; capryl glycol; and maltodextrin.
 15. A method ofincreasing collagen production in a person's skin in need thereof, themethod comprising topically applying to the skin in need thereof acomposition comprising an effective amount of an aqueous, alcoholic, oraqueous-alcoholic extract of Diospyros mespiliformis leaf to increasecollagen production in the person's skin.
 16. The method of claim 15,wherein the Diospyros mespiliformis leaf extract reduces COX-1, MMP-1,tyrosinase, or TNF-α activity in the skin.
 17. The method of claim 15,wherein the composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight of theextract.
 18. The method of claim 15, wherein the composition is anoil-in-water emulsion.
 19. The method of claim 15, wherein the extractis an aqueous extract.
 20. The method of claim 15, wherein the extractis an alcoholic extract.